95 civic dailey driver died in middle of street
#1
95 civic dailey driver died in middle of street
Hello all, my 95 civic daily driver , 165K miles, was sputtering a bit last week of the light, but made it to waork and back OK, next day started her up and made it half way down my street and she just died, would and will crank but would not fire up and start.
I'd appreciate some ideas that I may look at myself, I am not very mechanically inclined, but I can change plugs , and oil..thats about my experience level..
looking for trouble shooting ideas,I can can do, before I haul it to a shop..
Mike-
I'd appreciate some ideas that I may look at myself, I am not very mechanically inclined, but I can change plugs , and oil..thats about my experience level..
looking for trouble shooting ideas,I can can do, before I haul it to a shop..
Mike-
#3
Here are some standard "cranks but won't start" checks.
Turn the key on but don't try to start. Listen for the fuel pump to run for 2 seconds and stop. Also the check engine light should come on for 2 seconds and go out. If those things don't happen (CEL comes on and doesn't go out), suspect the main relay.
Take the oil cap off and watch the rocker arms while someone turns the key to crank the engine. If the rocker arms don't move, the timing belt is bad.
Take one of the spark plug wires off the plug and plug a spare spark plug into it. Hold the rubber part of the wire and press the metal outside of the spark plug against the engine. Have someone crank, the plug should spark. If you don't get sparks it's often a bad ignition coil.
If you have sparks go to this next test. Loosen the gas cap. Remove the fuel return hose (the larger hose on the fuel pressure regulator on the left end of the fuel rail) where it connects to the metal line at the firewall leading back to the gas tank. Direct the hose into a container. Turn key on but don't try to start, so the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds (as you confirmed in the first test). Gasoline should flow out of the hose. If not, there is a problem with the fuel pump, or the filter is completely clogged.
If all these tests check out you should finally consider the mechanical timing (timing belt has slipped but not stripped completely).
Turn the key on but don't try to start. Listen for the fuel pump to run for 2 seconds and stop. Also the check engine light should come on for 2 seconds and go out. If those things don't happen (CEL comes on and doesn't go out), suspect the main relay.
Take the oil cap off and watch the rocker arms while someone turns the key to crank the engine. If the rocker arms don't move, the timing belt is bad.
Take one of the spark plug wires off the plug and plug a spare spark plug into it. Hold the rubber part of the wire and press the metal outside of the spark plug against the engine. Have someone crank, the plug should spark. If you don't get sparks it's often a bad ignition coil.
If you have sparks go to this next test. Loosen the gas cap. Remove the fuel return hose (the larger hose on the fuel pressure regulator on the left end of the fuel rail) where it connects to the metal line at the firewall leading back to the gas tank. Direct the hose into a container. Turn key on but don't try to start, so the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds (as you confirmed in the first test). Gasoline should flow out of the hose. If not, there is a problem with the fuel pump, or the filter is completely clogged.
If all these tests check out you should finally consider the mechanical timing (timing belt has slipped but not stripped completely).
#5
Sounds like the motor is not getting fuel. The cheapest and first thing you should do is pull the fuel filter screw off (fuel filter is to the right of the battery). Turn the key to the on position, but don't start the car, and see if your getting any fuel pressure. If its a pathetic dribble you need to change the fuel filter. If nothing is coming out your fuel pump is probably dead.
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