Start by measuring the fuel pressure. See pgs 11-104 to 11-105 of the 92-95 Civic manual.

 

to do this i need the right equipment. I will get it, but in the meantime i removed the fuel line on the downstream side of the fuel filter and turned the ignition key to pos2. Pump ran and fuel flowed out of the filter, shooting up about 1/4". This confirms i am getting some flow, whether enough or not, or if the pump is building adequate pressure I dont know yet.

Is it likley that the injectors are getting no command to fire fuel in the cylinders?

 

The fuel pump may be bad or the fuel filter is clogged. 1/4" sounds very weak.

 

I built a fuel pressure guage and used it: 38psi with all vacuum hoses connected. Right on the upper end of the spec. I then installed a new fuel filter.

In my haynes manual under ecm codes it says: 17, vehicle speed sensor. For recommended solutions the manual states "take it to a dealer or service centre" For the manual to not suggest any diagnosing must mean the car has a critcal error. Out of all the codes only one other error suggested going straight to dealer.

I'm on the verge of giving in. Get the car towed to a dealer or reputable honda mech and bend over. Any final suggestions on what it could be? If im getting spark that means my entire ingnition system is ok?

 

Forget the VSS for now. You have bigger fish to fry.

1) Check whether each of the fuel injectors is getting power. Disconnect the connector to each fuel injector one at time. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Measure voltage between the YEL/BLK (+) terminal in the 2P connector and body ground. You should measure 12V.

2) Compression check all four of the cylinders (see forum DIY section).

 

I have checked each injector wire harness is getting voltage when key is on. also checked resistance of each injector is within spec. Checked resistance of ignition coil is within spec, both primary and secondary resistance. Now heres where I need some help...checked ignition control module (icm): ok for voltage in between blk/yel wire and ground. also ok for voltage in between white/blue and ground. The next step in my haynes manual is to check for continuity between white/blue wire and the blue wire. NO CONTINUITY HERE. Either I am interpreting the instructions wrong, testing the wrong wire, or have found a fault...but what fault? I checked for spark before and it looked good with the screwdriver test. Could the ICM be faulty and still be sparking the plugs, yet preventing the engine from running?

 

BUMP....any input would be appreciated.

 

Checking for spark:

Pull a plug wire and insert a good spare plug into the end of the wire. While you ground the threads of the plug against a metallic area of the valve cover, have a buddy crank the engine. You should see bright bluish spark at the tip of the plug. Repeat for each plug. If the spark is weak orange, the coil is probably bad. If you lack spark at all plugs, then the coil or ICM may be bad.

Have you compression checked the cylinders? Pull out the oil dipstick and smell the oil at the end. Does it smell of gasoline? If so, the engine is flooded, and you need to replace the oil. The thinned oil results in low compression, preventing the engine from starting.

 

update: so i gave up and had it towed to the mechanic. Car has no compression across the board. (Should have listened to ronJ) Mechanic told me my valves are bent. Nice! How could this happen if my timing belt was intact and the mechanical timing seemed okay? Well, i have a decision to make...junkyard motor, rebuilt motor, scrap the car, or drop in a ricer motor. Problem is the body is starting to show some rust so im not too stoked on the car as a whole. Maybe time to scrap...