You are only changing the switch assembly, so you do not need to remove the headless bolts. You will keep the old key cylinder and wheel locking mechanism attached to the car and just replace the plastic switch. The switch is held on by two screws with ordinary Philips heads.

 

The replacement switch that they sent me actually has the harness attached to it. I believe the connections are soldered to the switch. So shouldn't I go ahead and replace the whole harness assembly with the new one? It looks just like what is in there now. Please advise.


Thanks,

Steve

 

If it's easy enough to access the plug on the other end, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't.

 

Yes, you change the switch and it's short harness as a unit. Follow the wires back and unplug the plugs under the dash and pull the old switch out with it's harness attached. Then install the new one.

 

Hi,

Sorry keep to bothering you folks about this, but I have a bit of a problem. In one of my earlier post, I had mentioned that there were 2 blue/wht wires plugged directly into one of the 2 brown connectors at the end of the harness. Some of the follow up post were guessing that they may have gone back to the aftermarket radio in the car. Well I followed the wires all the way back up the harness that I took out and as you can see in the Original Ignition Switch picture below, the two wires actually went all the way back up the harness and mounted just underneath the ignition where the key goes in. If you look at the replacement harness, it does not have these two wires. So I'm kind of at everyone's mercy here before I can carry on, because I don't know how to handle this part of the harness. Please advise.


Thanks,

Steve

 

Those two wires are for the key-in chime reminder circuit that runs to the integrated control unit.

 

Any suggestions on how to get them out of the old harness and into the new?

Thanks,

Steve

 

If you have the key-in chime function, then you purchased the wrong switch/harness.

 

Everything else appears the same as far as the swich harness. I think all I need to do is figure out how to get the spade terminals out of the old and into the new connector, right?

 

The new switch should have come with the little switch that screws to the side of the cylinder.