Take the cap off the brake fluid reservior, then try it. The bleeding cap being off may not release enough pressure for the piston to go in enough. Prepare for the reservior to overflow alittle bit with some rags or towels. Umm....you shouldn't have to push them(pistols) back too far to swing them down onto the pads.

 

Well I managed to get everything done except for flushing out the entire system and replace with new. It started raining here, so I just bleed the air out (hoping I did it right). Took it for a test drive and seemed to be stopping ok. Not sure if there is anything special I should be doing while test driving. I had heard someone post somewhere once that you had to go through some series of breaking at different speeds.

I do have one more small concern. At the replacement caliper, I keep getting a very slight drip at the line connection. I tighten it some more and still get a slight drip. I disconnected the line and inspected the washers and bolt and brake line end fitting for any debris and it looked clean. I wiped it off anyway before putting back together. I did notice though that there was a slight indentation right at the seat where the copper washer goes against the cast caliper housing. I'm wondering if that is enough of an indention to cause that leak. It is barely leaking now, but I'm half afraid to tighten it to much in fear of breaking something off or cracking the end fitting on the brake line. Should I pull this caliper back off this weekend and take it back for another?

 

I'm assuming you used new washers? I'd try putting new copper washers on the wheel line and see if that doesn't take care of the leak.

But I'm going to say you probably bled the caliper correctly; if there's air in any of the lines, the brake pedal will feel softer and spongy. If the brake pedal feels normal, you probably did it correctly.

And to add to the "effort required to compress the piston" thing, you'll need to push a little bit but you shouldn't need to exert yourself or anything. Generally when calipers are seized they won't compress at all, though.

 

Yep, did use new copper washers that came with it. I'm hoping I've got the leak stopped, if not that thing is coming back off this weekend and I'll get a new one without the indentations.

Driving it to work to day, about 75 miles round trip. I'll let everyone know how it works out. I certainly appreciate all the great support I've gotten here. It has saved me a ton. A few months ago, I was able to replace the ignition swicth on it with everyone's help.