having a problem with my engine...had a 1.6 vtec lost it....now i have a 1.5 non vtec and im having issues...it cuts off while im driving and hard starting..changed the ecm from the 1.6 to the 1.5 and now my check engine light is on..lost for words and need some help. it is a 5 speed and i went from a d series to a b series....

 

Whenever the CEL is on, troubleshooting starts by pulling the code...

Check the ground wires on the engine. It's easy to forget them when swapping.

 

i agree. u might have a bad dizzy. now is the swap motor obd2 or obd1 that makes a diffrent as well

 

its an obd1...and i had to downgrade to a 1.5 non vtec....im having major issues. just wish i had someone i could trust to get it up to good standards without shafting me...the codes i got were vtec codes of oil pressure and a vtec spool valve...bought a sending unit...havent put it on yet. having vaccum issues as well cause its cutting out bad and running rich...drinking gas like a v8.

 

if you know anybody in the huntsville, al area that is trustworthy and good that can do the work im game...im a college student so i wont be doing to much to it for the moment.

 

OK i found out some things by doing some research. If anybody in here has an accurate picture or diagram of the vacuum lines and how the are routed properly that would help. Also i think i have either a bad map sensor (Its not hooked up for some reason nor does it show any connection to it from the d16z6 swap to d15b7), or a bad evap purge solenoid. when i take the vacuum line off the evap purge solenoid the engine doesnt cut out but when i place it back it cuts off. i would appreciate any help...even a good place to get parts.

 

MAP sensor is either mounted directly on the throttle body or if the firewall mounted type has a simple hose direct to the nipple on top of the throttle body. It is also possible to misplug the electrical plugs, don't confuse it with the TPS plug. One of the wires in the MAP sensor plug is solid white.

Taking the EVAP-related lines off is merely causing a vacuum leak. That is similar to pushing the gas pedal in that it will usually make an engine that runs badly stay going instead of stalling. You really need the MAP sensor working to have proper fuel-air control.

Also there needs to be a line from the main part of the intake manifold to the small port on the fuel pressure regulator at the end of the fuel rail.

Clearly whoever worked on it last... don't go back there.

 

Why would you be getting "vtec codes of oil pressure and a vtec spool valve" if you put in a 1.5 ECM?

 

If you still have a VTEC ECU and non-VTEC engine, codes will be thrown once you try to rev above 5000 rpm then the ECU discovers there is no VTEC. Keep rpm below that and it will work OK.