whats up everyone,I know I already did a post on this subject but now i have a little more information on what exactly the car is doing,and what all has been replaced to try and resolve the problem,I talked to the guy I am buying the car from he told me when it first happened he was driving to work one morning and after he got off the highway the car started chugalagga chugga chug and then it died,he thought it was the fuel pump so he replaced it,the next day,at the same spot on his way to work he said it did it again,so he looked at it somemore and he noticed the distributer cap and rotor was lose,so he replaced the cap+rotor,drove it to work the next day and it did fine,until he was on his way home and the chugalagin began and the car died again,the guy now thinks that it is a defective fuel pump,and that the cap+rotor was the original culpret,below is a list of things the guy wrote down for me that he replaced

1) timing belt(this was replaced before the car started dying)
2)distributer cap+rotor,and the igniter(what ever that is)
3)spark plugs,sparkplug wires
4)fuel pump
5)02 sensor
6)main relay
also I can't get the car to start because the battery is dead,I tryed to jump it yesterday but the battery dies withing 10minutes after the jumper cables are removed,but when it did have a little bit of power,I turned the key forward and I did here the fuel pump,and there where no check engine lights on,I also checked all the fuse's there all fine,hopefully the info above will help you all get and idea of what it's doing please post if you have any idea what it could be

 

when it dies, is he able to start it right back up.
the igniter is in the distributor. why did he replace that. thought that it needed to be diagnosed by the dealer, or did he do that.
might be the coil; or even the pick-up coil (in the dist).

need to check for voltage whenever it dies.
i know that in your situation that that is little consolation - but for these intermittant things ... ??

 

as far as I know he didn't have it diagnostic check buy the dealer,he just replaced the igniter,and I forgot to add that,it do's have a new coil,whats weird is when I drove it today,the damn thing ran very strong,it left about 5ft of rubber,when I shifted to second gear and I only shifted at 5000,it feels alot more than 96hp,I am starting to believe it was either very low on gas or completly empty cause I put about 2 1/2 gallons in it today and it started right up,that was also after I put the new battery in,but I noticed after my little fun run,it was idling very funny it would,idle up and down from 1000rpm to 1500rpm and it kept doing this until I pulled the pcm fuse,and reset the computer,I believe this is being caused by the idle air control valve(if it has one)cause my Trans-Am was doing the same thing,and after I replaced it,never had a problem again,I am going to buy the car tommorw,and drive it home and see if it die's then I will go from there

 

if those vacuum hoses are bad - will have some erratic idle.
i replaced all of mine (except for the big one off of the brake booster) - helped out a lot.
only costs 2 or 3 dollars.

honda has EACV, although most here call it IAVC. electronic air control vavle as listed in Haynes.

i had wild idle when it was cold in the winter - but would correct itself if i shut the car off and restarted. friend (mechanic) said he thought it was the ecu. only did it once last winter. thus makes me believe it is the ecu.
in addition to that, i do not have an idle adjustment when i turn on the ac (or headlights - but more pronounced when i turn on the ac).
i troubleshooted everything in the Haynes as far as the eacv. everything was OK. i don;t know exactly how the idle is adjusted when the ac is turned on.

if you have ac, could you turn it on and let me know if the idle return to normal; may momentarily drop off but should return to 750 to 850.

 

I drove the car home today from work after I bought it and got the title,its about 13miles from work to my house,it drove fine the whole way and only stalled once(my fault),but I noticed the car's idle would go way down a little past 500,and begin to stall,so I had to keep my foot on the gas and keep it revved up,to prevent it from stalling,when I got on my street I wanted to see just how quick it really was so I went through 1st and 2nd gear ran excellant,until I came to a complete stop and thats when the idle went retarded on me,luckily I was in my yard when it started,I pulled the fuse for the pcm to reset it,and started the car back up,but it was still idling erratically,if I drive the normally it under rev's and if I floor it,it revs up and then down after i come to a complete stop,there has got to be a sensor bad,cause that thing runs to good to be a motor problem,I am starting to think its either carbon build-up,incorrect ignition timing,or the computer(PCM),or a vaccum leak either the lines or the intake mounting bolts,

 

check timing
spray soapy water on the intake at the connection to the engine
replace all vacuum hoses

some sensors will trip a code.

does your idle go down and not come back up if you turn on the ac. or i guess it is too erratic tell (asking for my case, moreso).

if the above 3 do not solve it (completely) , write back. i got more ideas.

 

well my A/C don't work unfortunitly so I can't tell if that effects the Idle when turned on,I am however gonna check those 3 things and hopefully I can get the car drivable,my T/A's only getting 13mpg,so I need to get the honda on the road and save the T/A for the weekends,also thanks for helping out,and I will let you know what it doe's after I check/replace them 3 things