The idling speed fluctuations for your old versus new engine may have entirely different causes.

 

RonJ, I think it was you who suggested burping my coolant system, you BEAUTIFUL SON OF A BITCH! My car runs like a goddamn champion now.....a hahahah ahh a ha hah ah ah a :O :O :O -- Sorry let me get over my self for a minute.

Okay, so my car has ALWAYS had a problem with rough shifting, sputtering (when cornering, i thought it was a fuel issue sloshing around in the tank), crusing inany gear,coming on and off the gas, it had a decent jolt to let you know when im on the pedal. Sometimes a minor backfire, rough idle, surging idle, etc. etc. even after all of the repairs i've done. But, i've NEVER bled my coolant system, only added to it.


BURPING MY COOLANT FIXED ALL OF THESE SYMPTOMS --- WOW. Now, I can simply mash the gas (to clear whats left of the air), and it settles down toa nice idle. I think I still have to bleed it a little more, but I've already seen a 300% improvement. The surging idle is only mediocre now, no more hesitating or skipping from the motor around turns, smooth shifting, significant increase in power (I can definantly feel it, it seems more of an efficient pull through the power range).

This explains alot RonJ... I bought this car originally, knowing it had a blown head gasket. I've repaired it so many times since then without bleeding the coolant system, and this would explain why I've spent over $2000 in repairs on this car.

If anyone EVER does any repairs that requires breaking into and draining the coolant system, MAKE SURE YOU BLEED IT. I could have very well screwed up the last motor that I repaired because of this, and I probably almost screwed up the $600 replacement motor if I had drivin a few thousand miles like that.

Now I can focus on more important safety issues. Blinkers and Brakes --- Then on to the exhaust system tomorrow to clear up the nasty cough it has (exhst. leak). ---- Ron, you helped me through my head gasket (twice) and a full engine replacement -----THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU AGAIN.... I knew RonJ must have been helping people for a reason, must be gratifying. ---- ONE MORE TIME, THANKS !!! [sm=icon_rock.gif][sm=icon_cheers.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif]

 

Glad the suggestion helped. Credit really goes to mxs. I learned about the negative effects of bubbles in the coolant system from her.

 

Awesome, thank you MXS~

 

Okay, so after I'm getting some progress with the idling problem, I did the install on the new exhaust header/downpipe and new 02 sensor. Now, the car still surges (after bleeding the coolant system several times), the bleeder never really came to a full stream, only for maybe 5 or 10 seconds, then it starts bubbling again. Boy, does it sound better without an exhaust leak right at the dp and em mating surfaces, though.

The idle will come to a nice smooth idle every once in a while now and under random conditions. Before the exhaust install, I was able to manipulate and re-create the smooth idle simply by mashing the gas to maybe 3/4000rpms and letting it settle back to smooth idle. Car also seems to be still burning super rich. It was in my garage idling for maybe 5 minutes and it stunk up my entire house upstairs above the garage and was extremely potent.

Also, the car does not respond to advancing or retarding the timing at ALL. I know this is not normal and the only way I can adjust the idle is via the throttle rotor by hand, or using my foot under the gas pedal to lift up the pedel; thus removing pressure from the throttle rotor, and using the throttle cable adjustment screw itself for tweaking the idle. Anyone know what's going on there?

Edit; I also reset the ECU before attempting to start after the exhaust manifold install. Also: Had a small (:X) problem with the water in my coolant system freezing in the engine/radiator over night. I noticed it when attempting to bleed it this morning. I had a blown head gasket with this radiator and it was nastified with oil.

I was going to flush it with water for a few thousand miles and drain it a few times within that mileage and completely forgot that it's getting colder here in GA. We got our first really bad night of cold weather and hit my car like a freight train. I put heaters all around my car, moved my car to the garage, let it sit for several hours and cranked the motor to an idle every 30 minutes or so to get it to un-freeze. Needless to say, I've got antifreeze in it now and I'm curious what the ice could have screwed up and how much more money I gotta sink into this thing.

 

Here are my attempts to help you:

1) Re-bleed the cooling system (see picture 1 for details) after it is filled with the recommended coolant/water mixture. Let coolant flow out until you have a steady stream without any bubbles. Hopefully, this will help your idle problem.

2) Set the timing to proper specifications (see picture 2). Do not modify to adjust the idle.

3) Never use water alone in a cooling system. Coolant rather than water must always be used in engines because it has a lower freezing point and a higher boiling point and also because it contains anti-rust additives that prevent destruction of metal engine parts by corrosion. The concern about water freezing in an engine is that water expands when it freezes (that's why ice floats rather than sinks in water). The force of expanding water is strong enough to crack and bend metal. The amount of damage, if any, that your engine sustained depends on how extensive the water freezing was in your radiator and engine. You will need to be vigilant about looking for signs of potential damage (e.g., leaks and component failures). Hopefully none occurred.

 

Ron, Those timing specs are for the 1.6 SOHC and DOHC, mines a 1.5 SOHC, you think it's going to matter?

Also, the freezing of the motor was more of a thick "SLUSH" than actual ICE. So hopefully it didnt get to expand too much to destroy anything. Car seems to be running fine aside from the stupid idling problem. -- I'm going to take a crack at this stuff this weekend before I head out of town.

Let me know ron, thanks!

p.s. I also stumbled upon yet ANOTHER problem and a possible contributor to the idling issue. I drove my car at night for the first time in a while last night. The entire car's electircal system surges with the motor now. All my lights dim, head lights, tail lights, interior, EVERYTHING. --- Every once and a while when the car settles to it's random smooth idle, all the lights and accessories chill out a little from the pulsing. The pulsing of the lights completely stops when the motor comes to a rough idle (not surging idle) and puffs black smoke.

Whaddadillyo?

 

Sorry, I don't know the answer.

That's very good news.

Sounds like an alternator problem. First check that the alternator electrical connections are tight and making good metal-to-metal contact. Next check whether the alternator belt is tight and not slipping. Slipping also might occur if the belt is contaminated with oil. If these checks don't identify the problem, take the car to AutoZone where they will check the function of your alternator free of charge. I agree that this electrical issue could contribute to your idle problem.

 

Okay, I found another symptom. When the car is idling rough (putting, poofing black smoke), if I let it run in this rough condition for maybe 20 seconds at a redlight, the battery light flicks on maybe once or twice, and the car seems like it's going to die unless I push the gas. The alternator belt IS SLIPPING, I BELIEVE. The belt squeeles really bad during any shifting or when coming from 45/55mph to a stop at a red light. I'm going to attempt maybe putting some more tension on the belt by slapping the alternator down by the adjustment screw. Update coming soon.

I have maybe 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of slack when putting tension on the belt with my finger. Also, the belt only has about 3k miles on it.

 

Loosen the adjusting bolt (see picture). Push a pry bar against the alternator to increase tension in the belt and then tighten the bolt up. You might also tighten up the alternator nut.