now the thing is i know the basics. but we got hit by a snow storm today and i wasnt able to run thru those. check for fuel, spark and compression. well my wierd part is. my car ran before i did what i did. now its not. and what i did was remove the throttle body to clean it and replace the throttle angle sensor. went to the yard with a stripped bolt/screw extractor and a small drillbit. got the bugger off and took it home. installed. no longer getting a code 7 on the ecu. but now its not starting. i connected all the vacuum lines and replaced the throttle body gasket with a new one "didnt even have one on there thanks to the jackass who owned my car before me, more useless than **** on a boar i tell ya. but i had a couple of theories. first off when i removed the fuel line to the tb i dropped a spacer washer but i replaced that still to no avail. and when i tried to pull a fuel injector out i broke the brown one so i got ones from the yard but i think their bad. they dont test "in range as specified in the manual" but neither do the ones i previosly had on the vehicle. tomorrow im going to tear off the dist cap and check for rotation on the engine to check if the belt snapped, check the coil and the igniter, i have spares if i fooked it up. then check for gas. i noticed on the green fuel injector theirs 2 ports on the injector nozzle plastic tip. do i have to have those aligned inside the throttle body? anything special? i just took a paternity test and found out i have a six year old daughter "btch waited till now to tell me" and i have to have a reliable car as driving to the boulder county human services is a 40 mile trip from denver. so im screwed and borrowing my moms cavalier "i cant stand it its facking automatic and its slow compared to my poor civic". im floatin down a river of shyt without a paddle and need the help. thanks for listenin and any help is well appreciated!. thankx

 

I don't know if it would cause as much problems as to make the car not start, but the throttle position sensor has to be adjusted properly when installed. You have to use a multimeter to do it.

That's the extent I know about the TPS though so you'd have to get any further questions answered by someone else or searching.

 

Check your new TPS through its full range with a voltmeter and calibrate it. Like Trustdestruction said though I don't think that will prevent starting.

To check fuel flow, disconnect the return hose where it connects to the metal line at the firewall and direct it into a container. When you turn the key on and the pump primes, fuel should come out of the hose. This shows that fuel is flowing up to to and through the throttle body.

You need exactly one copper washer on each side of the "banjo" fitting with the hollow bolt. If the washers are bad it will leak, but it won't impede fuel flow.

 

Get back to basics: CEL codes, spark, fuel pump priming. Then go from there.

 

ok i think i have located the culprit. i stuck my keys in the ignition and turned the car on then took a jumper wire from the starter sig and tapped it to the battery to crank it myself "i dont have anyone else 2 help me" and i know im gettin fuel because i have the top plastic part off the tb and it reeks like gas and i can see it spraying into the manifold. the thing is i noticed is i have no spark. i have a initial spark when i crank then nothing. i had 3 spare ignition control modules and 1 spare ignition coil. had the icms tested at autozone and they all passed. the coils passed a Resistance test too. but idk if thats conclusive. im about to test the pinouts to the distributor to see if their getting proper voltages. but idk.

 

CEL codes?

What color is spark?

With the key in ON(II), do the dash warning lights turn on and do you hear the fuel pump prime?

 

when i turn the key to on the check engine light lights for one second then turns off. and at the same time i can hear the fuel pump priming. ill go back outside to check again for sure. im cleaning out the dist as good as i can and scratching the surface of the ignition terminal, cap terminals and rotor terminals.

 

scraped the terminals in the dist cap. scratched the **** out of the spark output terminal on the coil. mounted the icm good inside the dist housing. and connected it. at first it kept like jumping but it didnt wana start until after like the 50th crank lol it finally started. sounded good to hear this damn car running again. as soon as i get the cash im going to buy a new coil/rotor/cap. is their anywhere online that sells the cap seal around the cap?

 

ehh. its running now. it runs damn good but now it seems like theirs a hissing noise coming from the throttle body :S idk

 

A hissing sound is just the air flowing-- normal-- it should be muffled out when you put the top cover on the air box and connect the pipe to the air filter box.