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2000 Honda Civic A/C

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  #31  
Old 06-23-2011 | 08:51 AM
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The right side driver Civics must be basically the same under the hood (not mirror image), or it wouldn't be possible to swap JDM engines and transmissions into US models. My guess is those instructions are for an entirely different model of car. The Civic alternator is on the back of the engine, (and held by 2 bolts not 3) there's absolutely no reason to remove it to access the compressor.
 

Last edited by mk378; 06-23-2011 at 08:53 AM.
  #32  
Old 06-23-2011 | 03:36 PM
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An update.

So I came home and had a box on the doorstep. It was the used blower motor I bought off Ebay for 19.99. It was in great shape and when I compared it to mine, I could definately see the issue and mk was right, the wheel was way too lose. The bearing in my blower motor was also bad too.

I installed the replacement in and the vents were pushing out air for the first time in three years. Its not cold air, but atleast its circulating air. Felt good.

I also bought some 3 ton jack stands from Harbor Freight Tools. I had an awesome coupon that I received in the mail yesterday. I bought a pair of the jack stands for $13 dollars and they are normally $35.

Im almost tempted to see if the compressor will work now that the blower motor is functioning properly. I know its a long shot but it would be nice.
 
  #33  
Old 06-23-2011 | 03:48 PM
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That's not the problem, you're just going to blow another fuse. The car tries to turn the compressor on but since it has a shorted coil the fuse blows. Besides, the pulley is seized so even if the clutch did miraculously pull in, it can't rotate.
 
  #34  
Old 06-23-2011 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
That's not the problem, you're just going to blow another fuse. The car tries to turn the compressor on but since it has a shorted coil the fuse blows. Besides, the pulley is seized so even if the clutch did miraculously pull in, it can't rotate.
Yeah I figured.

Im going to take it somewhere to find out if theres pressure in the system this weekend. Fingers crossed that there is. If there is Im just going to buy a new coil and clutch kit (if the coil isnt included in the kit).

If there isnt any pressure I will think over whether Im going to do this myself, unless i feel its easy enough to switch out the compressor + drier + whatever other parts are needed to prevent contamination.
 
  #35  
Old 06-24-2011 | 06:07 AM
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Hous, if there is contamination i.e. a leak, then you will also need to account for vacuuming the entire line so that any moisture is completely removed from the system. Also note that if you do replace the compressor and dryer, you will need to change them out as fast as you can to minimize the contamination of the system.
 
  #36  
Old 06-24-2011 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mundy5
Hous, if there is contamination i.e. a leak, then you will also need to account for vacuuming the entire line so that any moisture is completely removed from the system. Also note that if you do replace the compressor and dryer, you will need to change them out as fast as you can to minimize the contamination of the system.
You have to vaccum even if there isnt any fluid right? Is vaccuming the same thing as when you take the car in for them to remove the fluid from the compressor so you can legally change the compressor?

How much does this cost? Thanks for the heads up about changing everything as fast as possible.
 
  #37  
Old 06-26-2011 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Hous
You have to vaccum even if there isnt any fluid right? Is vaccuming the same thing as when you take the car in for them to remove the fluid from the compressor so you can legally change the compressor?
Not exactly. Recovery is removing the refrigerant before making any substantial repairs. Recovery is simply removing the refrigerant. I do not believe they vacuum anything for this.

Vacuuming is after recovery is complete and you have completed all repairs and are ready to put in new refrigerant. They will have to vacuum all the moisture out of the system as inevitably they will get in as they replace the various components of the a/c system.

How much does this cost? Thanks for the heads up about changing everything as fast as possible.
Cost depends on who does it. I'd check with your local garage and places like jiffy lube or other places that now do a/c repairs.

But know that vacuuming is only necessary if you have replaced any components that require you to recover the refrigerant. If you have sufficient refrigerant and you only replaced the clutch and the coil of the compressor, you are good to go.
 
  #38  
Old 06-29-2011 | 08:20 PM
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I have a 98 honda civic have had it since 1998 with only 4 miles on it and my AC quit working so i started with the change of resistor bc only top 2 speeds would work--FIXED. then moved on to changing A/C condensor fan unit bc it not working was causing my engine to surge----FIXED. next i changed my condensor in front of radiator along with new schrader valves and all A/C system seals just as maintenance then my bearings were bad on compressor clutch but it was cheaper and way easier to buy and change whole compressor than just clutch. Flushed my entire coolant system and added some engine cool to new fluids and guess what----I am back in business all oarts mentioned were bought brand new for grand total of 463.78$ and i did all work myself with only a little muscle and guidance from my DAD. try rockauto.com for parts. my OE compressor with clutch and o-rings and oil was only 238$
 
  #39  
Old 06-30-2011 | 02:15 PM
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how did you purge your system? to the atmosphere?
 
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