Ok, so I started a new bleed procedure, ran it 15 minutes or more topped it off with a funnel stuck in the radiator top, filled up about 3 inches in the funnel. I started to get bubbles, then more bubbles, then the bubbles did not stop... the fluid level would rise and drop in the funnel but never went down.

Radiator pressure test checks out ok
Cylinder pressure test checks out ok

What could be the possible symptoms of air getting in there now besides the exhaust leaking into the coolant. Maybe a cracked radiator? The heat never got above 1/4 meter the whole 20 minutes I bled it.

 

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Ok, got the combustable engine test kit for exhaust in coolant, ran it hot with the rad cap off and sucking up air from the radiator into the blue fluid , ran it two times just to make sure. Fluid stayed blue, confirmation, no exhaust leak into coolant.

No exhaust leaking, good head gasket, new thermostat, fuel filter, no milky oil or substance in the radiator fluid, no white exhaust, no leaks from rad pressure confirmed with the test kit.

I really want to say water pump because the last one was done at 105,000 and its now at 201,400. But I don't do this for a living so, guys?

Thank you.

 

Sorry about interupting you guys about heating problem but I just wanted to open up a problem that I think a right place cause the thread is about Multiple misfire. My problem is about my 98 civic ex 124K. I went for an inspection and failed but dont see no problem on it, no check engine light but somewhat slips a bit on the first gear (auto transmission) so when I test it using an OBD scanner (actron OBD auto scanner) I found out that it got an p1399 fault (multiple misfire) so I did a manual check removing each wire on my plugs while the motor is running and all of them are okay, check the wires and the longest got the highest ohms which is 1187 ohms and the other are lesser while going shorter. I've got a new cap and rotors new ngk plugs ( the one's replaced still looks good). Just bought this car and dont know what the former owner have done or replaced. This just puzzled me
No engine light but with a p1399 fault on it ( the CEL is good coz it lights up when I turn the ignition on) any help will be much appreciated. Need to have my inspection

 

if you woulda read the thread you'd see I had the same issues, new plugs, wires, dist cap & rotor, upon further inspection it was a bad ignition coil, the ohms were too low, check your coil , theres the multiple misfire, if its not the coil its the ICM ignition control module, the little box right next to the coil.
The ignition system is kinda all connected together, one affects the other so even though I had new plugs in there, the coil wasnt supplying the right ammount of spark causing a misfire, then when the new coil was installed the plugs had already started going bad because of the bad coil.

This thread was about multiple misfire but I also had other pending issues about overheating at the same time. the misfire was more important because the car was really bucking hard, overheating can be bad too but Im pretty sure Ive tracked it down to a bad water pump, even though no one wants to tell me Im right.... The guy at auto zone agrees with me though, same thing happened to his gf pontiac, no a drop of coolant on the ground, the seal went blowing small portions out the weep holes and letting air into the system. Once air is in the system the problem grows expotentionaly cause more evaporation of coolant and more overheating because a larger air hole.

Ive found if I keep it below 3k rpms its not as severe. Anyhow a new water pump is in order.

 

okay thanks for the info, I'll try to check it out tommorow, regarding to your problem I have once experienced the same on my 93 civic bubble or air in the radiator that I taught its the water pump but still the same it overheats. Bubble or air comming out on the radiator means its a leaking head gasket so I changed the head gasket and viola the overheat problem gone. good luck and hope your problem is only the water pump

 

check the coil today and the primary is .2 ohms above the limit and the secondary is within the limit but anyway changed it to a good coil but still having the P1399 fault. Forgot to check the ICM. Any more ideas what to check? Please help..thanks in advance

 

You need to touch neg n pos on your meter . It should read .2 - .3 subtract that ammount from your reading should put you right on.
I'm having issues now too , my original #3 misfire cylinder code is back n the car is bucking on startup but havent overheated once or lost any fluid .
Id maybe say check the voltage on the icm ? I'm stuck here too , gonna Google , gl

 

Car all of a sudden is bucking again and throwing code 73 , #3 cylinder misfire, I took out the plug and it had oil and grime on the threads... But don't see how the rings could be leaking because the cylinder compression test was OK.

Car starts and idles fine, upon acceleration bucks, sputters but keeps going.

btw, car is not overheating anymore or losing fluid...

Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil. Only thing I can think of is Ignition Control Module . I saw your posts Ron about testing the ICM and Ive called 6 auto parts stores none of them have the right adapters or they don't have the test kit. Very disappointing...

Wanted to know if you could think of anything that would make it buck and throw a #3 misfire code. Starts and idles fine, just under load problems occur.

 

Swap the fuel injectors #3 for #2 and see if the problem moves to cylinder 2. Also you could try one of your old wires (not the #3 wire) on that cylinder. Oil in the spark plug hole either dripped down from the valve cover gasket (not a big deal) or came out of the cylinder because the plug is loose or has a crack in it.