Okay, so i plugged it in, turned it to the on position, it hesitates to turn the CEL on, then It comes on one time solid, goes off, and flashes slightly 5 times, where can I find out what this means?

 

Okay, now I can't make any more sense of the no spark, the code should be 5, as I read it, and that should be my MAP sensor, and Why would that give me no spark? I checked power going to the Dizzy, and there is 12 volts going to it. On the outside of the plug, to the inside of the brand new distributor. Where else could I check to see. And would the MAP sensor cause me to have no spark?

 

One long and 5 short is a code 15. The code should repeat for as long as you leave the key on.

Code 15 is "ignition output signal." I think that is usually an internal ECU failure though it might also be a short in the wire from the ECU to the distributor.

 

Okay, thanks, is there any way I can tell if it's actually my ECU or if it's my Wiring to My Dizzy for sure? Or Do I have to get a new ECU to be able to find that out?

 

And here is another thing I just figured out about my car, I knew it was, but it's complicated, My Car's body is an lx/dx, but the engine is a d16z6, and the ECU i'm running is a p06, but the d16z6's call for a p28, my car ran, it ran fine untill this happened, if i end up buying a new ecu because it's bad, would I be better off buying a p06 again? or a p28? Would the harness hook up all the same and what not?

 

Is your VTEC solenoid hooked up? VTEC engine will run with non-VTEC ECU except of course the VTEC would never kick in.

 

How could I tell if it's hooked up? I know the wires are being ran, but I'm not sure if it's, in fact, hooked up. But do you know a way I can tell if it's my ECU or wires being ran, because I'm not sure What it is, and money is a little tight for me right now.

 

Do you think possibly, replacing the Ecu with the p28 and replacing the entire wiring harness, could fix my problem?

 

Look at the back of the head first. There is a little cylindrical solenoid there. If you're standing at the front of the car, it's in the top left corner, near the distributor. Look for a plug on it. If there's a plus with wires, see if you can follow those wires. Or at least note the color. Then look at the ECU plugs and see if those wires go to the ECU. If so, you're wired for vtec.

If possible, find a friend with a p28 ecu and swap it into your car. See if that solves the problem. If so, it's a bad ECU and you need to replace.

 

Do a quick check to make sure the camshaft rotates when you crank. That's pretty fundamental but obviously if the timing belt is stripped the distributor doesn't rotate, and no sparks fire.

I think replacing the ECU is a reasonably safe bet at this point. Really you could use any OBD1 ECU for a test, even one for automatic transmission. The engine would still start up.