My 1995 honda civic ex d16z6 engine, has no spark. One day i was pulling into a gas station and it shut off right before i pulled into the parking spot. I got it into the parking spot, and it took a while, but cranking and pumping the pedal got it started, then about 3-4 weeks later, i was pulling into somewhere else for work, and then it just shuts off again. Since this time, i can't get any spark, and it wont start. I just replaced the distributor, rotor, and distributor. and I've replaced the main relay, which i've heard can sometimes be the problem of no spark, and i'm still getting nothing. Do you have any suggestions of how I can get my car running? I have no idea how to fix this. I'm not an electrical problem kind of guy..Anything is appreciated.

 

How's about the plug wires? try out a spare set if you have it.

 

They're pretty much brand new, they're, well, they were 2 months old when it broke down. and not a single one of the wires have spark coming through.

 

Young age doesn't mean there wasn't some kind of defect. Definitely worth checking...

 

Sounds like you replaced the whole distributor? Cap, rotor, ignition control module, coil, all of it?

 

Check the ignition switch.

 

If the motor spins, it seems unlikely that it has anything to do with the switch, IMO.. or maybe I misread the OP? Is it not spinning at all either? Or does it spin, but no spark?

 

Turn key on but don't crank. Check that the Check Engine light comes on and goes out(*). Check that the "oil" and "battery" lights come on and stay on. If it isn't already, pull the hand brake up, the BRAKE light comes on. Then crank. The BRAKE light should stay on while cranking. It is powered from the same circuit that runs the ignition.

Under the hood, you can check that the black and yellow wire to the distributor gets battery voltage both with the key on and while cranking.

(*) If it does, put the ECU test jumper in and turn the key on again, the CEL should come on and stay on steady. If it blinks, count out the code(s). If CEL doesn't ever come on (and it's not because someone removed the bulb), there is no power to the ECU or ECU is bad. If CEL lit up steady in the first test-- and you know the main relay is good and the test jumper is not in place, usually it means the ECU is bad.

 

To everyone, yes, my motor cranks, engine spins, everything, just no spark, well, that I can tell that's all. I'm going to do exactly everything you just said. and THANK YOU for telling me the wire I need to check for power to the distributor, i had a feeling i was gonna be looking all day for that. Lol, and where do I get an ECU test jumper?

 

On the passenger side of the car, pull down the top of the carpet under the dash by the front door hinge. You should find a big wire harness there that has wires to two small plugs hanging out that aren't plugged into anything. The plug with two wires is used for the DIY method to blink out ECU codes (the other one with 3 wires is for dealer testing). Take an unbent paper clip or any suitable piece of wire and push one end into each socket hole to bridge the two wires together. The ECU will now be in test mode.