Hey guys,

First post. I have a 1994 civic dx cpe, 5spd, 213000 miles.

About 6 months ago , very infrequently , the engine would have to crank for 8 to 10 seconds before it would start on a COLD engine. On a warm engine it would start and run fine. This was in the summer when it was warm out. It continuously got worse until recently it now happens every time. It is winter now and I have to crank the engine for 30 seconds before it will start.

It seems that if I keep the accelerator floored is the only way it will eventually start. After about 20 seconds it starts to fire but I have to keep the starter engaged because it is not running fast enough to keep going. It chugs and then I am eventually able to disengage the starter and it still is not running well. This is all with the pedal floored. After about another 5 seconds, it finally revs up to normal. Now it does not want to idle well on its own. I have to keep light pressure on the accelerator or it feels like it might die. Once it warms up it runs great and starts great on warm engine.

AFTER the symptoms occured I have done the following:

Replaced distributor assembly to include cap, rotor, igniter, coil. No help.

Took to dealer , they replaced a temp sensor. No help. Took it back . They had it for a week. Told me I needed new injectors as they were leaking down when car sat. They wanted 12oo , so I took the car and installed new injectors myself. No help. I have also done the IAC valve. No help.

I have run out of ideas.

thanks, jeff

 

Of course any time someone says it cranks but won't start you have to think main relay. Resolder it just on general principle.

Below 60F the fast idle thermal valve on the bottom of the throttle body should open to let additional air into the engine. That may help with the needing to press the gas after it starts but not all the things you describe.

The check engine light is not lit, right? Does it work, it should come on for 2 seconds when you turn the key on but don't start.

Try clicking the key on for 2 seconds (until check engine light goes out) but don't crank-- repeat several times to prime the fuel system. Then crank while holding the gas pedal down only slightly, not wide open.

 

When were the spark plugs and plug wires last replaced?

Here's a link for cleaning and adjusting the FITV.

Definitely also check for CEL codes. Click here.

 

I replaced the thermo valve on the bottom of the throttle body already also. Plugs and genuine honda wires are newer.

I am now thinking that there is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. I had my son squeeze the return fuel line on the bottom of the regulator with a pliers when I did a cold start. The car started right up. When he let it the line open again, the car started to die. It appears there is not enough fuel pressure . Not really sure why this part would act up only on cold start. Has anyone else experienced this??? Unless I hear different I will try a new regulator.

Check engine lite is working correctly. Comes on for two seconds when key switched on. Then goes out. I have been pressurizing the fuel system manually several times before each cold start. The engine runs for a half a second then dies. This is what got me thinking about the regulator and not enough fuel pressure. The system has enough pressure for a second or two for an initial quick start and then the regulaor bleeds it off and engine dies and wont restart . Does this sound logical?

thanks, jeff

 

A cold engine needs a rich air:fuel ratio to run properly. Vacuum applied to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) reduces the fuel pressure. Pinching the FPR vacuum hose would maintain a higher fuel pressure. Have you recently replaced the fuel filter? It may be clogged. Alternatively, the FPR is bad.

 

Fuel filter is less than 5k old. Genuine Honda. I have ordered a FPR.

jeff

 

You might want to measure the fuel pressure. The FPR is a likely culprit, though another possibility is a failing fuel pump or a fuel leak.

 

My car has the same problem. I have been told from multiple sourced that it is the fuel pressure regulator. I am going to buy one tomorrow. So if it does not stop I will let you know.

 

I have had the exact same issue for almost a year as the original poster and have made all of the same repairs and more including the regulator. Nothing has affected the problem. I would like to know what you guys have figured out for the issue.

 

Did you find out what the problem was? and how to fix it?
It look like mine is doing this as well. On Sunday morning it was 2c and it would even turnover but in the afternoon when it was 10c you wouldn't have know that there had been a problem before.