For (7) it is expected for the fan to not come on in your case because the lower hose is not getting hot.

If the system were working properly, with the car sitting still, hot coolant will leave the engine and enter the top of the radiator. But it will come out the bottom still hot because there is no air flow to cool it off. The switch detects rising temperature in the lower hose and activates the fan.

 

The switch detects rising temperature in the lower hose and activates the fan.

 

Parts on the way and craigslist mechanic ready to go... here is the plan.

• re-manned Head, new gasket kit and (bolts, if needed)
  
• flushing and testing the radiator, cap. & thermostat and replacing if needed
  
• Replacing the overflow tank and cap ($14 why not, had expanded, alot, once)
  
• Cleaning and testing the IACV and FITV, replacing if needed.

My fan should come on now all should be good, I Hope....but.....
I read on here, someone did all this and the car still overheated, what then?

02 sensor?
MAP Sensor?
Block?
I put in a used / pulled ECM/ECU... Test that, maybe, HOW????

any other ideas. I want to be prepared so I can get this in and out of the shop ASAP. Lets pretend money is no object.


already changed: New Distributor, water pump, ect sensor,

and... plug wires, air & fuel filters, belts,muffler, tires, oil pan, control arms, tie rods...& cv boots...i know i know theses don't cause overheating, I'm just sayin!

 

I read that the catalytic may also be an issue.

And now that i think of it... i have gone through 2 mufflers in about 4 years or so, do you think my catalytic is bad, (due to the moisture from the blown head) and how can i test this.

 

Are you getting any symptoms of a blown head gasket (bubbling out of the radiator running the engine with the cap off, or white smoke that smells like antifreeze?)

If not, I would just put a new thermostat in, bleed thoroughly and see if that helps before commencing any major work.

Moisture won't damage your catalytic converter. A bad converter won't shorten muffler life. Cheap mufflers can rust out quick on their own.

 

Reasons I believe head blown:

• Coolant disappears constantly
  
• Coolant bubbles out while running
  
• Coolant shoots out of radiator top with cap off when car is started
  
• Coolant boils over into overflow, and pressure expands the overflow tank unless overflow cap is loosened slightly
  
• Water Drip from tail pipe, no white smoke but white steam and smells sweet randomly in car while driving, usually while running hot.

I also hate to admit this, but we drove the thing far too much while hot. DUMB for sure!!!!

I'll check the thermostat though, plan on replacing with high quality or OEM anyway.

-Thanks

 

Not sure, but could all of this overheating have warped the block's cylinder head mating surface as well and possibly need to be resurfaced?

 

Not sure, but could all of this overheating have warped the block's cylinder head mating surface as well and possibly need to be resurfaced?
Man for all of this time and money you could have bought another civic.

 

OK... Got the car back today,

• new re-manned head installed, car runs great. No overheating!
  
• Replaced throttle body and FITV with junkyard pull, car idles great. No bouncing Idle!
  
• New HONDA thermostat.. Fan kicks on! All seems well!!!......

EXCEPT, Now... Car is making ticking sound from engine area while running and idling!(definatley a tick, not a knock)
Engine noticeably louder than before, sort of sounds like a diesel engine or an old VW Hippie bus. Any thoughts. Valve adjust????

ALSO....I think it is running rich... although i have not confirmed this yet, the Throttle and FITV was from a 1995 Civic, i have 93

 

yeah adj the valves, it dont matter about the fitv coming from a 95 civic