WELL A GOOD FRIEND OF MINE CHECKED OUT THE CAR THE OTHER DAY. SAID THE FUEL FILTER WAS CLOGGED AND THE DISTRIBUTOR WASNT SPARKING FAST ENUFF. I GOT THE FUEL FILTER AND INSTALLED IT AND THE DAMN THING STILL WONT START. I DUNNO ANYMORE MAN IM TEMPTED TO SELL THE GODDAMN THING. I LOVE MY HONDA AND ALL BEST CAR OUT OF THE 3 IVE EVER OWNED (1987 PONTIAC FIERO, 1971 TOYOTA COROLLA) BUT WHAT GOOD IS IT IF IT DONT RUN. IM NOT MECHANIC AND I DONT HAVE ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD. MY GRANDPA SAYS ITS SOMETHING MINOR. BUT THAT DONT TELL ME ****. THANK YOU TO ALL THE PEOPLE ON HERE WHO HAVE HELPED ME OUT AND ANY MORE IDEAS WILL BE APPRECIATED.
THANKS AGAIN
ANTHONY

 

This comment suggests a problem with the ignition system, particularly the coil or igniter unit in the distributor. If the Check Engine Light (CEL) is not ON and the ECU LED is not blinking code 15, then replacing the coil might solve your starting problem (see pictures).

 

seeing as you said you didnt have to much money, its worth testing it, before replacing it. I know what it can be like being short on cash..
# Disconnect the distributor cap end of the coil wire and attach to the ignition tester. Attach the ignition tester to a good ground, away from any fuel lines.

A good spark tester can be made from an old spark plug gapped to 0.200".

Crank the engine and observe the tester for spark. If a crisp blue spark is noticed, the ignition coil is working properly. If a pale yellow spark is noticed, continue on to step two.

# Disconnect the negative battery cable.

# Note the position of each wire on the ignition coil and remove them.

# Inspect the coil for leaks around the top and for external damage. If any are found, replace the coil.

# In the proper service manual, locate the test specifications for your vehicle's coil.

# Connect the ohmmeter to the primary studs of the coil. Turn the meter to the 0-2M ohm scale. Compare your reading to the primary winding specification for the coil. (Figure 1)
# Remove either one of the meter leads from the primary stud and connect it to the coil wire lead. Reset your ohmmeter to the 2M-20M ohm scale and compare the reading to the secondary winding specification for the coil. (Figure 2)

# If the primary or secondary winding readings do not fall within the range indicated in the service manual, replace the coil.

# If the coil tests within specifications, refer to the proper service manual for further diagnosis.


Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective.

Hope this helps man....

 

I KNO HUH. AND AUTOZONE WANTS 68 DOLLARS FOR A NEW ONE. BUT IM GOING TO HIT SOME JUNKYARDS TOMORROW AND SEE IF I CAN FIND ONE FOR CHEAP. THIS HONDA I GOT HAS A VERY AWRY PAST. AND THE JACKASS WHO SOLD ME THE CAR WANTED 1000 FOR IT. BUT WOULD GO FOR 500 AND I MAKE PAYMENTS. BUT THE EXHAUST PIPE WAS ****ED WITH 2 HOLES AND I WAS TOLD IT WAS GONA FAIL EMISSIONS, I TOLD HIM TO GO SHOVE THAT 500 HE GOT UP HIS **** (HE ONLY SIGNED THE TITLE, I PUT DOWN A PURCHASE PRICE OF 500 TO KEEP MY PLATES CHEAP. I SHOUDLA PUT ZERO OR 100, SAY IT WAS GIVEN TO ME). BUT THE THING IS WHAT HE TOLD ME, THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD IT AND THE CLUTCH WENT OUT ON IT, HE HAD NO INTENT ON FIXING IT SO IT WENT TO A JUNKYARD. THE JACKARSE WHO SOLD IT TO ME GOT IT, DROPPED THE ENGINE AND REPLACED THE CLUTCH. AND MY GRANDPA SAID SITTING IN A JUNKYARD SO LONG **** COULD OF GOTTEN ALL DIRTY AND RETARDED (LMAO I DOWNLOADED THE SERVICE MANUAL AND IM STILL LAUGHING MY *** OFF AT THEIR CHOICE OF WORDS "FOUL PLUG MAY BE CAUSED BY : RETARDED IGNITION TIMING" OH WOW WHY ARE MY SPARK PLUGS FOULED, UHH CUZ UR IGNITION TIMING IS RETARDED LMMFAO!) AND HE ALSO SAID THE IGNITION COIL MAY HAVE THE SAME LIFE OF THE CAR, BEEN IN THERE SINCE IT LEFT THE FACTORY. BUT YEAH I WANA TEST IT AND ILL TRY TO AND HOPE I DONT ELECTROCUTE MY DUMBASS LOL

 

yeh test it before, you might be wasting your time and money if you go search and get a new coil

and yeh be careful with the electricity there is HIGH power in there!!!!!! though you might not have thought it.

and if you havent got a multi meter, go buy one, here they are only 5pounds, and its a great addition to your tool kit, i have used mine ALOT more than i though i would when i bought it. I always enjoy getting new tools kinda like a hobby for me[&:]

 

AS IM READING THRU THIS SERVICE MANUAL I STAGGERED ACROSS SOMETHING INTERESTING. THE CAR RAN BEFORE HE SCREWED WITH IT. BUT IT SAYS NOT TO GROUND THE WHITE WIRE TO THE ALTERNATOR. IM NOT SURE IF THE JACKASS DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY BEFORE HE DID IT. BUT WHAT MIGHT HAPPENE IF THAT WHITE WIRE DID GET GROUNDED ON ACCIDENT.... COULD IT OF BLOWN A RELAY OR A FUSE OR SOMETHING I CAN GO CHECK FOR? THATS WHAT TRIPS ME OUT. THE DAMN THING RAN BEFORE HE SCREWED WITH IT. AND I KNOW THE GUY. I SMOKED WEED WITH HIM A COUPLE OF TIMES, HES A FUCCING DINGBAT AND WORSE WHEN HES STONED. SOMETIMES I WONDER IF HE HAS HIS HEAD IN HIS **** LOL

 

first of all if you look on the left hand side of the keyboard under that tab button and above the shift you will find the caps lock button, please turn it off



yeh i relay or a fuse could have blown, best to double check your fuses again, test them with a multimeter as some times they can blow in the most difficult to see places...
then im not sure how you can test a relay so you might have to go to the scrap yard if you dont have so much cash, but bear in mind the stuff in the scrap yard is not new and could also be broken

 

lol sorry about the caps and all. but the junkyards here in colorado give a 90 day warranty too if the part is bad. but ill play with it tomorrow. its 4 o clock here in colorado and because of the time of the year, the suns starting to go down and i dont have a lighted garage so i really dont feel like screwin with it in the dark, plus im here by myself so i have no one to help me crank it. but i will give it a shot tomorrow, pick up the old buzzard (my gramp lol) and play with the car. i got a offer for a 92 pontiac grand prix 2 door for 250 bucks and the starters bad and the back window is shattered, but i like my little honda (gotten the bugger stuck in the snow alot) and plus i hate pissing automatics, i have no way of telling if its an auto but im going to guess it is since im getting it from a old lady who dont have the money to fix it "lol i dunno many old ladies that drive sticks rofl. but well check the stuff tomorrow (my grandpas an old bat, he didnt know the ignition coil was built in the distributer, he swore up and down that it wasnt but i guess the service manual i got proved him wrong lol" but thanks again for all the help and ill keep you guys posted. ive been lurking around these forums and i joined for help to get my car fixed, but i like the diy section so i plan on stickin around. i play with electronics and leds and crap like that so if i get my poor honda running, maybe ill do some neat mods and take pics and show em off on here and upload the wiring diagrams and **** like that, but thanks and yall have a good one

 

Grounding the big white wire to the alternator while the battery is connected will blow one of the big fuses in the fuse box next to the battery. I think it's an 80 amp one. They are big square boxes that look different from regular fuses but they have a clear window on top to see if it's blown.

 

i checked them. the highest is a sixty amp fuse. and they all looked undamaged.... i even got a fuse tester and the little ones tested all fine in the engine fusebox. but those large ones i cant test but visually they look fine