View Poll Results: Car options
Voters: 18. You may not vote on this poll
need help deciding (yes one of these again lawlz)
#11
S2k!!! Test drive one and you'll fall so much in love with it's flickable handling you'll never want a fwd again
Okay, maybe I'm exaggerating but the s really is an amazing car. my bro has an s also and a dc5 and he never touches the rsx anymore since the s feels so much better. He bought snow tires too so it's not a problem for him here in co. I personally use my civic beater for the winter, and insurance for the s is cheap since I have my s listed under pleasure secondary car
Okay, maybe I'm exaggerating but the s really is an amazing car. my bro has an s also and a dc5 and he never touches the rsx anymore since the s feels so much better. He bought snow tires too so it's not a problem for him here in co. I personally use my civic beater for the winter, and insurance for the s is cheap since I have my s listed under pleasure secondary car
Last edited by theblackpearl; 09-21-2010 at 08:58 AM.
#12
The problem being I wouldn't have a winter beater, nor would I be able to afford it. Option 4 would give me extra money (compared to 2 & 3) to spend on mods, as would option 1 (but 1 would have me trying to modify two cars at once). I would have winter-friendly cars with options 1 & 4.
I. Hate. Chrysler. The only thing I ever did to a Dodge that I actually enjoyed doing was taking 22's off a 2010 Charger and putting the stock wheels back on.
I'm aware of that. The only problem is it's ~$2,000 for the top alone from a dealership plus all the miscellaneous things like hardware. Aftermarket ones aren't much better, ranging from $2-4k+. If I were to get the S, I probably wouldn't settle for anything less than the Bulletproof fastback roof.
I'm aware of that. The only problem is it's ~$2,000 for the top alone from a dealership plus all the miscellaneous things like hardware. Aftermarket ones aren't much better, ranging from $2-4k+. If I were to get the S, I probably wouldn't settle for anything less than the Bulletproof fastback roof.
#13
The problem being I wouldn't have a winter beater, nor would I be able to afford it. Option 4 would give me extra money (compared to 2 & 3) to spend on mods, as would option 1 (but 1 would have me trying to modify two cars at once). I would have winter-friendly cars with options 1 & 4.
I'm aware of that. The only problem is it's ~$2,000 for the top alone from a dealership plus all the miscellaneous things like hardware. Aftermarket ones aren't much better, ranging from $2-4k+. If I were to get the S, I probably wouldn't settle for anything less than the Bulletproof fastback roof.
I'm aware of that. The only problem is it's ~$2,000 for the top alone from a dealership plus all the miscellaneous things like hardware. Aftermarket ones aren't much better, ranging from $2-4k+. If I were to get the S, I probably wouldn't settle for anything less than the Bulletproof fastback roof.
#15
... yeah. The civic isn't a standalone option. The only FF car I can think of off-hand that I'd be willing to give up the mustang for is the RSX.
tbp:
Or I could get the Bulletproof hardtop:
But even with snow tires a FF is going to do better getting traction on hills than a FR. Not to mention a RWD car will not be getting into my driveway if there's snow on the driveway. That's the biggest downside to RWD. Really, a FWD car would suit my needs provided I don't get too power-hungry. I don't drive like a teenager on the streets and I have yet to visit a track. As far as handling, I think I'll be able to take whatever car into a competent-handling street car.
Anyway, pics for motivation:
(That's the Bulletproof hardtop I was talking about)
tbp:
Or I could get the Bulletproof hardtop:
But even with snow tires a FF is going to do better getting traction on hills than a FR. Not to mention a RWD car will not be getting into my driveway if there's snow on the driveway. That's the biggest downside to RWD. Really, a FWD car would suit my needs provided I don't get too power-hungry. I don't drive like a teenager on the streets and I have yet to visit a track. As far as handling, I think I'll be able to take whatever car into a competent-handling street car.
Anyway, pics for motivation:
(That's the Bulletproof hardtop I was talking about)
#16
lol, you're talking about the price of the s2k being too high and then you want the hardtop from bulletproof who is a director importer of spoon hardtops which costs like 4k+. that's more than half of what i paid for my s2k, and half the price of my bro's s2k.
i'm sure you can get any of the above cars to handle great like the s, but the s's handling will always "feel" better lol
but if rwd is such a set back for you and if you're not interested in the track then ek ftw
i'm sure you can get any of the above cars to handle great like the s, but the s's handling will always "feel" better lol
but if rwd is such a set back for you and if you're not interested in the track then ek ftw
Last edited by theblackpearl; 09-21-2010 at 08:23 PM.
#19
Truth be told, I'm starting to lean towards option 1. I've noticed so far if I let the idle settle after starting the car (let it idle for ~30-60 seconds) before even putting it in gear it doesn't knock. My theory ATM is that due to the initial low idle (on startup it tries to idle at 350-400rpm) the oil pump isn't pushing enough volume, causing the knock. Why the knock continues I have no clue. I'm thinking it might be as simple as switching to 0w20 oil (instead of 5w20) and simply taking a full minute to let the idle settle in before driving it (lately I've been impatient about it).
And tbp, that's pretty much exactly what I'm talking about; I don't want to buy a car and then spend 50% of the car's value to change one thing appearance-wise.
Honestly, the three biggest things the DC5 has over the EK are the ITR wing (I love a big wing that still manages to look clean), the K-series, and the 6-speed. Spending $3,000 on an EK and $5,000 on a k20a2 swap would eliminate two of those advantages, and I think I'd be happy lol.
And tbp, that's pretty much exactly what I'm talking about; I don't want to buy a car and then spend 50% of the car's value to change one thing appearance-wise.
Honestly, the three biggest things the DC5 has over the EK are the ITR wing (I love a big wing that still manages to look clean), the K-series, and the 6-speed. Spending $3,000 on an EK and $5,000 on a k20a2 swap would eliminate two of those advantages, and I think I'd be happy lol.