C pillar bar is to help keep rigidity of rear of vehicle after removing the rear seats.. they seem to act as a support.. after i took them out on last hatch i noticed a difference in feel of vehicle in turning.. you figure that alot of metal flexing with nothing straight in the middle now after pulling out the seats. But yes camber kit i will probably get skunk2 front and rear i can pickup for only 320 which ill have the spare cash for returning my B series motor mounts..

 

yeah i know what a C pillar brace does. i just think you'd be better off with struts and some lower sway bars.

 

Read above in suspension.. already have eibach sway bars .. struts are only thing i dont have as originally i was hoping to buy back my old car and pull my eibach suspension off that and use those struts and sell the springs

 

Tonight is the night.. taking my new hatch to work loaded with a ton more goodies ive been recieving throughout this last week.. headed to garage in morning to be setup on jack stands/blocks and work will be started.. i will include as much DIY as I can with pics.. Cant wait..Im so excited/and i just cant hide it ... Haha!!! [sm=bling.gif]

 

sounds good man! i wish i could buy all my suspension stuff at once.

do you mean you have both upper and lower sway bars? because a lower sway bar will make the car a lot more riged than a C-Pillar bar.

 

holy crap..that is one big makeover in a month, i got all this money coming in but i dont no what i want to do..mabey a H brace

 

i have the lower eibach sway bars.. then inside car i have upper strut braces and the c pillar that connects to the old seatbelt clips on the rear seat .. helps keep rear interior stable after removing the seats which act as a structure point

 

[sm=ttiwwp.gif]you gotta let us have a lil peak!!! i'm goin nuts!! this project is insane!

 

I think you would be happier with an engine swap, a B16 or H22(they are just sick)

b16 and h22 motors you can find at Here

I say ditch the d16y7, and get a

H22A 92-95 Motor, Tranny, Computer (Long Blocks {motor-only} are just $ 1200.00 Plus shipping and handling.)
200Hp 161Trq 10.6 Compression (JDM)
190Hp 156Trq 10.0 Compression (USDM)
$ 1950.00 Plus shipping and handling.

or

B16A 92-95 (SiR-II) Motor, Tranny, ECU (Long Blocks {motor-only} are just $ 900.00 Plus shipping and handling.)
170Hp 113Trq 10.4 Compression (JDM)
$ 1750.00 Plus shipping and handling

A motor swap, will do more bang for your buck than these upgrades.

These are great upgrades, but more potential could be proven on a more powerful motor.

I have Stainless Cat-Back, Headers, and cold air intake, with adjustable fuel pressure regulator and premium spark-plugs/wires and ECM rev limiter off, speed limiter off, and advanced timing.

stock my motor D15b7 does about 102 hp. Im thinking with these upgrades I do 130-140... and the JDM d15b VTEC gets 130hp and thats stock. just to prove a point, I spent about a grand on the mods, when I could have just bought a nearly brand new motor, plus had a bit extra to spend on exhaust and headers. And I could have gotten better results if I had decided to go turbo from the begining, but a motor swap is in the near future for my 95 civic DX, and I have made up my mind, im going turbo, which means i'll have to build the motor up, for my track car. Another car will be a stock swapped motor into a civic shell, that will be my daily driver.

I guess the most important question to ask yourself is, will this be a car for track, will it be just for show, or will i have to rely on this car to get me to work...

the main reason I think anyone, myself included, should get a motor swap, its the most natural way of getting the power you want, from a motor that provides it. I could throw 3 grand at my d15b7, and still get smoked by h22 swap (all stock motor) but on top of me putting a turbo on my 1.5L I would not have the reliability or road-drivability of the stock h22... i dont think.

Where do you want to spend your time in your car the most, on the Track? at the show? or on the road?

once you know that, ask yourself, do you want to push the pedal to the floor to go, or just give a little tap and your GONE!!

That is the difference from money... spent right and money not spent wisely. Deciding to go Turbo when you've bought most the mods to go all-motor ... headers/cold-air is a regretable one, but I guess people could always sell or trade their stuff somehow. huh.

Hope this blabble helps and doesn't confuse you.

 

Im late coming back at this.. alot has been going on right now.. just broke up with ex and moved to new place.. while having issues with the car.. i already was deciding to go turbo. this is my daily driver though for the time being but i will be getting another daily within a year so it only has to make it through one winter with turbo..the person i got intake manifold/tb from is letting me take it back .. only parts im gonna have to ebay once turbo is on is the intake and headers.. i have the luxury of living within 2 hours of Jeff Evans and Jon at Streetworks who is helping me .. and who i have been talking to about mods for a while.. i was going to do the Vtec conversion with bolt ons but kept running into issues where i couldnt do what i wanted for the cash.. rebuilding a Y8 head is more than people want to post on here.. just for port/polish 3 angle valve job is near 700 plus cost of cams.. so just going to keep stock y7 and building my own turbo with help of Streetworks .. then getting the Neptune job for at least 200whp.. Neptune is only 600 bucks.. thats with the system.. just returning my intake mani and tb made up for that cost..so my total cost keeping my stock engine should be around 2500 for turbo setup .. and the engine swaps do cost a bit more if you count mounts/wiring linkage axles..etc..so once i get my living situation straightened ill be getting everything straight for the boosting.. but i will have pics after this weekend of the current finished car minus turbo and a few small things.. didnt get my CF lip kit i wanted yet.. need to replace my lower grill still ..