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Tub's Civic Story

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  #71  
Old 08-01-2011, 04:00 AM
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is was thermo ground. i had my semi stupid friend doing it. i had invited two people to come help yesterday. they both brought another friend. so there was five people. to put it nicely a bunch of tools got broken and the work was done bad, but i love em all. i now have code 8 popping. which is top dead center problem... FML.

ok so the code 8 pops, so i took a 17 mm socket and rotated the engine threw a few rotations. nothing hit and stuff so the timing is not off, or thats what i know. and the up is up and the timing mark on the bottom is perfect. so why does it say TDC problem... also my car will not crank. so could there be a problem with the starter causing this TDC code? ugh im so mad right now..


ok so i went out to check starter motor. there is three connections, two big bolts and one little spade connection. the big bolts have 12 volts between them. then spade connector to the bottom right bolt has 2.6 volts or so. and to the bottom left has like 8 volts. its 8am and the engine was pretty hot. which is weird cause it hasn't started in weeks. so i felt around. the starter motor was like a million degrees. so i unplugged everything. could my starter motor have burned out and caused all this?
 

Last edited by tuboflard; 08-01-2011 at 04:50 AM.
  #72  
Old 08-01-2011, 07:17 AM
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ok here is a picture so i can get some help...

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ok bolt 1 is the ground to the starter. bolt 2 is the positive to starter. and i believe wire three is the wire that says hey starter turn on. i have 12.18 volts from positive on the battery to negitive on the battery. i have 11.56 volts from bolt 1 to bolt 2. i have 11.55 volts from the wire three to big bolt 2. by the way my keys are not on or in the start position. they are not even in the ignition. and from what i know about electronics. the 11.55 volts from the wire to the positive is telling the motor to spin. now its not hooked up so its not spinning, because when it was hooked up it would not spin it would just get super super super hot. so yea. am i doing everything right or am i an idiot. and i think this is the perfect time to get a push to start button =)
 
  #73  
Old 08-01-2011, 08:16 AM
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I know nothing about the starter issue you are having. It probably would be best to make a separate thread in the appropriate section so people like MK and RONJ can see it. They are extremely knowledgable. We are lucky to have them on the site.

Anyways, I believe you still need to put your key in the ignition, turn it to [II] and then hit the button. It is just an extra step in starting the car. Now... wire that push start to an alarm. If any once tried to steal the car, they may push the button in attempts to start it, setting the alarm off
 
  #74  
Old 08-01-2011, 12:40 PM
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i already put it in mechanical problems or what ever. they will see it eventually. or i hope they will. and then about the push to start that is true, unless i take apart my ignition which i might. there is not much breaking into/stealing cars in my part of the world. but i was planning on doing something where i hard wire my fuel pump, and my gauges. and then the rest of the ignition, like just make the car think the key is in and in run. with three different switches. then a push to start at the end. so you flick three switches up, then press the button to start the car. its kinda ricey but i would love the feeling of starting my car like that every time.

o yea, mk is already helping on my thread specifically about this.
 
  #75  
Old 08-01-2011, 01:32 PM
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hmmm.... i wonder if the transmission ground got removed?

you should have a ground wire from your valve cover to the chassis, and one from the battery, to the chassis, to the transmission (attaches to the thing that holds the cable)

yeah, i had a buddy help me with my car a few times... gave up on help, started doing it on my own. sometimes it helps to just have someone there to chat with and to hold the light, ha ha.

if you kept the rear interior it would be easy to hide a fuel-pump cut-off switch?

starter has the 3 wires. one from the fuse box, one from the ignition switch, and a ground. i'll take a look at my car tonight, and i can tell you exactly which is which. good luck!!!
 
  #76  
Old 08-01-2011, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tuboflard
i already put it in mechanical problems or what ever. they will see it eventually. or i hope they will. and then about the push to start that is true, unless i take apart my ignition which i might. there is not much breaking into/stealing cars in my part of the world. but i was planning on doing something where i hard wire my fuel pump, and my gauges. and then the rest of the ignition, like just make the car think the key is in and in run. with three different switches. then a push to start at the end. so you flick three switches up, then press the button to start the car. its kinda ricey but i would love the feeling of starting my car like that every time.

o yea, mk is already helping on my thread specifically about this.
You are lucky not having to worry about that sort of stuff. Living 10 min from Philly, I don't think I can take that chance. haha. Regardless, I do not think hard wiring the car would be a good idea. Hidden kill switches would be fine, but hard wiring I would advise against.
 
  #77  
Old 08-02-2011, 09:38 AM
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like u said mk helped. just to recap what he said just in case anyone is to stumble on this with the same problem. the positive goes on post 1. the negative on post 2. i had them flipped. which the positive hooked up to the ground caused the starter to get very hot very quick. but i flipped it and the car now cranks fine, doesn't start, or run, or drive. but it cranks. i have to fix a small gas leak. might just be some new washers or something, its right at the end of the fuel filter where the hose goes to the throttle body. maybe i never torqued it down enough. then the car should start. i need to re flush coolant and maybe change the oil. and do some work on the air intake. then it will run. put new brakes and springs on. new windshield, new head lights, new exhaust, then it will drive. there's a ton more ill list here... hopefully nothing else big pops up...

recap so i can look back and know what im doing and you guys can suggest other stuff to do or what kind of parts to use.
fuel line fix...free
air intake fix...free
(car will start)
radiator flush...$20
oil change...free
valve cover seals...free
spark plugs...free
spark plug wires...free
distributor cap...$20
throttle cable...$?
(car will run)
springs...free
brakes...$100
alignment$20
(car will drive)
windshield...$200
headlights...$150
exhaust...$200
battery box...$10
hood latch...$50
insurance...$80 per month
(car will drive safely and legally)
then fun stuff =)
 

Last edited by tuboflard; 08-02-2011 at 09:42 AM.
  #78  
Old 08-02-2011, 10:25 AM
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You can get an alignment for $20?!?! The cheapest place around me is $60, but $80 nfor lowered cars. Luckily, I was grandfathered into the lifetime alignment plan with my coupe
 
  #79  
Old 08-02-2011, 06:48 PM
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my bro is a mechanic remember lol =) he can probably do it for free, i'm just estimating right now. hopefully i over do everything.
 
  #80  
Old 08-03-2011, 04:02 AM
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so you guys don't yell about more pics... here is my new springs that hopefully will go on shortly...
 


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