Going back to motors, a b18c type r spec will NOT give you 250 hp easily... all motor h22 is best bang for the buck hands down. H22, with lsd trans, and a set of cams will put you easily 200 to the wheels. a type r will put down MAYBE 170 to the wheels? And with an H22 you are looking at as much torque as the b18c has hp. Once I sell my car I'm building an eg hatch that'll be H22. I plan on stock bottom end and fully built head with most likely Skunk2 Pro2's, expect to get me low 13's. Don't expect that from any b series without being crazy built and lots of tuning.

As for the f20b, friend of mine at work has an eg hatch (vx) with the f20b in it. It's a really fast car, but the biggest issue is when you go to lower compression, everything has to be custom (he's boosting next year). Companies don't mass produce rods for them since they aren't common motors at all, which will cost more to have the stuff made. Now the benefit over f20b than h22 for boost is in the sleeves. H22 sleeves are frm and don't react with forged pistons well at all, which is why h22 blocks should be sleeved if you plan on putting forged in. And f20b blocks have iron sleeves, so you can throw forged in no problem, but the cost goes up. I love H series if you can't tell, I recommend them as a swap, but f20b is cheaper initially (like $800 from HMO for a longblock) but for future mods it'll cost more.

 

if they're drilled, they now have stress points, thus leading to breaking.
Cooling isn't an issue. Regular disks are vented as well. It's done purely for show.

"You want to know why 'sportscar' companies still put drilled rotors on their cars? An insider who was actually involved in the actual testing of the brake rotors fessed up about it. They conducted tests with plain and drilled rotors and concluded and confirmed that the plain rotors had no downsides and in fact were better in hard braking than the crossdrilled rotors AND would save the company a little money not having the crossdrilled option. And when they put them on cars, customers commented that, "For a performance car, they should have at least gone through the trouble/expense of putting on high performance crossdrilled brakes". They realized that this is the general public perception, so even though they had concluded that the plain rotors wree better, they put crossdrilled rotors back on the cars. If that's what the public thinks and wants, that's what a good business provides."

I used to have a link to an interview. It's garbage, these drilled/slotted rotors.
Here's a good link: Cross-Drilled Rotors Myth - Xtreme Import Performance
there's some on Honda-Tech too. no advantages.
And at $100 per rotor, you're still better off with blanks. =P
But if you want the bling factor, go for it. I'm not meaning to sound rude, but it comes off that way when I type. xD

You sure know your stuff though. IMO it doesn't help a whole lot with removing the interior, that's just my opinion though. But, if you're gonna install a harness and a part roll cage or something, I can understand. You should. =P

Scott, good info. I would love an H22 EG Hatch with boost. Oh man, that would be soooo sick.

I can't wait to see how this car is going to turn out! Tub, you'll do it right. You know what you're doing.

 

ok well let me ask the question again without my imput. what motor should i get. my objectives.
must take boost well
must get at least 200 HP after bolt ons and some engine build (pistons cams stuff like that)
must have room to grow. so dont say turbo D. =( sorry
and should be somewhat unique. if that is posiable. just throw out anything. one of my friends said a chevy corvette z06 motor kinda fits with a little modification. then you have RWD civic hatch =). so there is no stupid ideas. im willing to do something completly retarded if it follows criteria.

 

Put a k20 in.....?

 

buy a wrecked s2k engine and drivetrain and swap it in. Its been done before, so I'm sure there is a little info out there about it.

but in all honesty, if those are the things you're looking for in a motor, why don't you just build a k24 hybrid? they're reliable and will produce 250 hp with bolt ons. I understand they hold boost pretty well too.

 

K24 hybrid???
Tell me more. It sounds awesome. I'm picturing, it's sorta like CRV-TEC I'm guessing????
That's AWESOME. =D
Do that! Do that! Then boost that son 'ah beach!
That would be SO cool!
K24 block with a K20 type R head!!!!

 

yes. its using a k24 tsx (crv too?) block with a k20 head. Hell, even a lightly modded k20 will get you to almost 250.

AND if you are on a bit more of a budget there is also the G23 Frankenstein which consists of: H22 head and a f23 bottom end. Its got a long stroke, iron sleeves and low compression. Also, I believe it has two wide main bearings instead of just one. Its seemingly built for boost, but I haven't found too much information on anyone who's actually boosted the f23 bottom. I've only recently started to seriously read about them. Apparently people have had some luck putting k-series pistons in them (just like in the article below) but I've read that because the k-series piston is meant to have the load on the opposite side of the piston, they don't work that well. So... you could either try that route OR have a custom set made, along with some rods... that'd probably cost a pretty penny, lol.

here, read this:

K24 VTEC Versus G23 VTEC - Tech Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine

I plan on doing a stock H-swap with an H2B kit and a GSR transmission. Later on down the road I want to build a f23 block with forged guts and swap that on, then turbo. BUUUUUT... I may just stick to N/A, do some headwork and make up some custom ITB's out of motorcycle parts....


edit-ps- I know you're wanting to get to 250hp before turbo (or at least, thats how I understood the post) but have you considered just turboing an LS? they're cheap as hell and people have boosted to 300hp on stock internals on their daily drivers. Personally, I wouldn't shoot that high on stock pistons/rods... but the sleeves are supposed to be good for more. So, if you just throw in a set of rods/pistons ($700/300 on ebay) and have your rotating assembly balanced along with some new bearings... you'd have a bulletproof drive train. Plus the LS has a crank that is designed to give the engine more torque. (horsepower sells cars, torque wins races) It doesn't have vtec, but that just makes it easier to tune. with a good tune and t3/t4 hybrid turbo you can see 250 all day with no problems and a beautiful torque curve which is great for DD.

 

well i guess ill correct myself. i want 250-300 HP after turbo. but would like room to grow if i need it. i just want the car to be quick and fun to drive. maybe i dont even need 250 HP. i guess everything is still open. i really like the idea of the h22 head with f23 block... low compression sounds perfect. i might need to put nos in it at some point. but ill stick with the turbo for now. im gonna look into the h22 head with f23 block. ill find someone in wisconsin parting out a car to swipe parts off of. theres tons of them every winter here. either they rust out or it breaks something and the person cant fix it in a day so they need to get a new car because they cant bike to work in the snow. so they part it out really cheap so they can get a cheep winter beater. so ill look into it and maybe start gathering parts early =) thanks for the imput.

 

ugh, i could get the engine and transmission parts fine for the swap. but i read into the work. i really do not have that kind of skill. i guess i am stuck again on what to do. i really like the idea of the f23 with h22 head. maybe ill just have to do a straight h22 swap...

 

You should just do an F23 swap and then you can upgrade to the H22 head in the future. Apparently that combo with stock pistons makes a decent boost candidate. OR just build the motor now and don't swap it in for a long time... gathering all the parts you'll need.