I have heard H motors are horrible for boost, especially H23's.

Boost a GSR motor, make like 300+whp and have fun. B18's are fun for boost IMO.

Suspension? I have no idea. It depends on what you want in terms of spring rates etc etc

 

did a little bit of weight reduction today. and by that i mean i completly striped the entire interior. im probably going to get hated on for doing it but thats fine i guess. its what i want to do. its my project car so thats what its gonna be, a fun to drive project not a daily driver. so here is a pic of it now (or pretty recently im still cleaning the inside cause there's black gunk all over.)






also got my racing plugs and wires. Bosch fusion's and accer 8mm wires.

 

if you're stripping the interior, might as well remove the sound deadening as well. every bit helps.
check out my build, you'll see it removed if you're curious.

as far as swaps go...
there's a boosted H22 in town that is just crazy fast. However H and F series swaps are known to be sorta costly... B series swaps are cheaper and cheaper as days go by. $100 for mounts off ebay? bah, why not.

or, you can do what i'm planning, and just do "stages"
Stage 1: get to multipoint fuel injection. you're gonna have to do it for any swap you want to do in the future, nothing works well with that crap DPFI system. for the swap, you need the intake manifold from d16a6 (or equivalent), new intake manifold gasket, injector plugs, distributor from d16a6, pm6 ecu, injector resistor box, some wiring and some soldering skills.

Stage 2: get to OBD1
88-91 civic are pre-obd. crappy electronics to a degree. most people opt to swap to obd1 when they are doing a full motor swap. you need a jumper harness most importantly.

Stage 3: swap in a bigger/better motor
d16z6, d16y8, d15 vtec, DOHC ZC, SOHC ZC
I group those together, they're the low tier (still good, but not good enough!)
pros: inexpensive, reuse your transmission, mounts, shift linkage, axles
cons: low power potential compared to b series + others
b16, b18b, GSR, b18c
most common swaps. large abundance of parts. good platform to start with
pros: decent power with no mods, easy to upgrade, excellent for boosting
cons: need new shift linkage, mounts, axles, b series transmission
h22, f22, etc
not very common. certain companies make adapter plates so you can use a b series transmission on those motors (maybe even D series)
pros: makes good power numbers, unique
cons: a little complicated, ground clearance is an issue with some mount kits
K20, K24
Honda's latest beast
pros: high powered beast. cool swap.
cons: stupid expensive on average. obd2 swap.

Stage 4: BOOST!!!!
And then MORE BOOST!!!!

I looked around at swaps for a really long time, I'm some sort of endless fountain of information for the EF chassis... sometimes...

really it depends on A) what is your budget? B) how much power do you want to make? Someone on here once said, more than 400whp on a street car is a waste. I now agree, lol.

I think door mounted seat belts are lame btw. =P

also, if you plan on reselling the car, keep the interior plastics. it's hard to sell a car with a stripped interior, it just brings down the value. all that plastic doesn't weigh much tbh, and your car is gonna be loud on the interior. just some advice. if you like it, keep it. xD

 

well my budget does not matter. i have 500 every two weeks to spend. and i cant work on the car from like late october till march, so thats a few grand right there. also if i buy an engine from like jdmenginedepot.com they come with intake and that stuff. so doing intake now is slightly pointless or for what i know anyway. i want something i can get at least 250+ horse power. i also want something original. which is why i want the F20b. 197 horse stock, but 11:1 compression... so i would need to drop the compression and then boost, which is kinda counter productive. there is not many f20b swaps to my knowledge. also from that 197 i can get it to 250+ pretty easy. and one of my friends said that the f20b is pretty light. but yea i dont know for sure. i just wanna have something fun to drive around in on weekends and stuff.

btw i threw out the entire interior besides the front two seats, the visors (incase i race in sun), and the passenger "oh ****" handle lol. but i wont sell the car, and if i do it would be to someone who would like it for what it is. thankyou a lot for the input.

 

250hp? Save for a B18c type R if you don't want boost. Close enough at 200hp, or build an LS/vtec.
The point of changing the intake manifold to a MPFI one right now is so that you can wire up 4 injectors... right now, you have 2 injectors right after the throttle body. they spray fuel, and it gets sucked into whichever cylinder might be firing. sounds better having 1 injector for each cylinder.

since you really really want to boost, it would be cheaper to do a D16 boost project. They say it's safe up to 300whp? but that's it. don't just look into the cost of the motor!!! you need axles, shift linkages, new motor mounts... converting to hydro transmission to use the F series... with B series, you can use a cable Integra transmission. Trust me, you're better off. =P

you've got your mind set. but yeah, definitely chip out that extra sound deadening if you're going full stripped interior. It'll feel more like a toy, ha ha, like a motorcycle.

Remember, the more research you do, the easier the swap will be overall. Look up some prices on F series mounts for the EF chassis, and a cable-to-hydro kit that works, and find out the axles you'd need. Or, you know, spend the $1400 on the adapter to put a D-series transmission on the F20. Just giving you some sort of idea!!!

 

yea about the sound deadening i am going to keep that because i like the red interior. ill put some more pictures up to show how clean it is. i did find a lot of rust on inside of the roof, but it looks like its just surface so a little sanding/priming/painting will be in order.

personally i would like to change out everything. i like the idea of starting in like november and buying one piece every week during the winter. like start with the motor, then new valves, new pistons, new transmission, motor mounts. then by march or april when i start working i will have a lot of the parts.

and i get the point of mpfi but if i buy a motor with it already why would i spend the extra money now. i might end up doing it but idk... thank you again for all the help. i really do like it.

 

if you do it now, you can get mpfi running, and know you don't have any other issues to deal with.
if you do it during a swap, that's a whole bunch of stuff being changed. so if it doesn't start up, you'll have a lot of troubleshooting to do. i've been there.
mpfi manifold is only like $50 from a junk yard, dizzy and ecu should be like $20 each or so.

yeah, true, you'd have the big primer spots if you remove the deadening. buuuut, you could repaint it underneath as well!!! =P

think about some suspension as well btw. extended top hats, some good shocks, lowering springs or coil-overs... depends on what you want to do, or if you want to be low. i haven't looked as much into that, so i dunno what i can help with. xD

we're having an awesome conversation here, ha ha ha.

 

well i ordered skunk2 springs at my local aftermarket car shop. shout out to radio doctor of madison, fixing up cars with the latest in greatest in sound, performance, and style. love you guys. i also am looking into sway bars. i gotta buy breaks first though, looking at them as i type. ill tell you what i got in like thirty min. i might get shocks too, my car is going to sit about 2 inches lower (it says 2.5 but i did weight reduction.) and i guess i get the point of doing mpfi now. ill look into it i guess. how bad can it be.

 

just get a ceramic pad and some plain rotors.
drilled/slotted = less surface are = less braking power
there's a few really good posts about it. but that's what it comes down to. don't fall for the "sport" disks or whatever, it's a scam.
i've heard good things about brembo blanks, never looked into them tho.

mpfi swap is pretty easy. just need d16a6 dizzy, intake manifold, ecu, injector plugs and resistor box. just do it, you won't regret it. =P

also, with all that you removed, i'm not certain it makes a huuuuge difference. there was a thread about it somewhere on honda-tech... rotational mass makes a bigger difference (i.e light weight rims, clutch, flywheel). lexan windows also make more sense, much lighter than glass. glass is heavy. but it's not street legal.

sway bars, quality ones... Explicit Speed Performance
look around on that site. it's interesting.

 

i did just get drilled and slotted rotors, they offer better cooling than full rotors. thats why. its not about better stopping. or thats what i thought anyway. and could i argue they are lighter weight. and i think they look cool. and lastly my dad has a motorcycle that has drilled rotors, and now mine are drilled and slotted, so hes gonna be jealous. and i know there are three "stages" of weight reduction. first off is weight on the springs. less weight to pull or stop means faster acceleration and breaking, also with less mass comes less momentium, which is the factor of the force that pulls you to the outside of the corner, thus better handling. then non spring weight reduction, like lighter wheels and tires. helps more because it does not bounce or roll when turning or something like that. and lastly is rotational weight. anything the engine has to spin take out. AC, water pump, rims, flywheel, clutch, axles. this helps you get more power out of your engine. not actually increasing your HP but making the use of it more efficient.

and i got these...
Skunk2 Pro Series Front Camber Kit for 88-91 Honda Civic at Andy's Auto Sport
Baer Rotors - Decelarotors Front for 88-91 Honda Civic at Andy's Auto Sport
and some tie rod ends from rock auto lol =)