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trustdestruction's Civic del Sol Si Project

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  #21  
Old 10-25-2008, 01:45 PM
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oil pump is directly behind your harmonic balancer (underdrive pulley)

another thing to do while your doing timing belt / water pump... its going to be a long day for you for sure!

go oem for it, you wont need a ported and shimmed one till over 250whp id say...
 
  #22  
Old 10-25-2008, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by didder
oil pump is directly behind your harmonic balancer (underdrive pulley)

another thing to do while your doing timing belt / water pump... its going to be a long day for you for sure!

go oem for it, you wont need a ported and shimmed one till over 250whp id say...
alright
any idea on its price?
and is it pretty simple to get to once the pulley is off?
 
  #23  
Old 10-25-2008, 01:53 PM
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Oh yea, forgot to mention I got my Phearable ECU today and installed it. I already had a chipped ECU, but it got messed up from my crappy soldering iron. This time I let them do the soldering. lol

Anyway, my car's running better than ever. (Not saying faster, just runs better - not entirely caused by the chipped ECU)
 
  #24  
Old 10-25-2008, 01:56 PM
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2k thats a steal!
If your motor does go pop then upgrade. I say go big or go home. B18c1
 
  #25  
Old 10-25-2008, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bigolsackapoo
2k thats a steal!
oh and FYI I bought it stock, so the 2k price didn't come with anything aftermarket. Although, all of the suspension and I/H/E were on my old civic and i just swapped it when i bought it. So pretty much everything on my mod list, minus suspension and intake/header/exhaust and the high flow cat, i have bought/installed since may

if the motor goes, yea that's a good idea, but then again a d16z6 can be had for like $500 for the full longblock and transmisson, and it's a direct swap


i might go with an LS engine though if that happens (b18b), i've seen them around here for good deals sometimes, and they're suppose to be good for boost because of the lower compression, correct?
 
  #26  
Old 10-25-2008, 02:09 PM
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Yeah they have a lower cr than a b18c. Although that doesn't necessarily mean that they are better for boost, you can run more psi and get similar hp. Imo an ls/vtec is the best option.
I see b18b longblocks all the time for cheap, and I'm sure a gsr head isn't that expensive.
 
  #27  
Old 10-25-2008, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bigolsackapoo
Yeah they have a lower cr than a b18c. Although that doesn't necessarily mean that they are better for boost, you can run more psi and get similar hp. Imo an ls/vtec is the best option.
I see b18b longblocks all the time for cheap, and I'm sure a gsr head isn't that expensive.
i'm pretty sure there's more to an ls-vtec than just mating the head. just like a cr-vtec is more in depth

anyway, i'm gonna stick with the D series, it's fun being the underdog (and making it up with boost), and they're cheap
 
  #28  
Old 10-25-2008, 02:42 PM
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Of course there is. You have to supply oil to the head, because the oil holes don't line up, Increase the intake side dowel holes to 14mm, taper the dowel pins so that the head sits evenly, get a vtec distributer(bolt pattern is different than ls), and get a gsr water pump/timing belt. Oh and gsr headstuds. Its not a big deal to do if you are mechanically inclined, and I've helped someone do it before(its not a short thing though). I believe stealthmodeperformance.com makes an oil feed line just for the ls/vtec or a b20/vtec.
 

Last edited by bigolsackapoo; 10-25-2008 at 02:58 PM.
  #29  
Old 10-25-2008, 08:35 PM
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yea, i don't have that kind of money
i'd rather just turbo the D

thanks for the info though, i've always wondered what exactly was involved in the swap
 
  #30  
Old 10-26-2008, 12:16 PM
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heres a comparison about the ls block.

on honda-tech there was a guy exact same turbo setup on a b16a4 and a b18b

the b16 made like 300whp, 140wtq

the b18b made like 300whp and 180wtq on the same ammount of boost!

just go with a ls block if the motor grenades ill see if i can find the link
 


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