Lewy2k's EG Coupe Project Thread
#172
Update: So I got the black housing headlights today and installed them in about 30 min after work. I took a picture and totally spaced taking a picture of the car since its been lowered. Gonna have to take care of that tomorrow. Waiting on other parts in the next couple days.
#175
Thanks guys.
Update: So I got the OEM mudguards and will install them today.
Although I'm having a recent problem with my foglights. All the sudden the in line fuse that comes from the relay and to the fog lights keeps blowing. Whether its 15-25 amp fuse it still blows right when I try and turn them on. I checked the two grounds, one by the switch and the one in the engine bay and they are perfect. Although the ground in the engine bay is really really long and far away from the relay and battery. I'm wondering if I move it closer or splice another ground nearby, if it will fix it. Other than that I'm stumped.
Update: So I got the OEM mudguards and will install them today.
Although I'm having a recent problem with my foglights. All the sudden the in line fuse that comes from the relay and to the fog lights keeps blowing. Whether its 15-25 amp fuse it still blows right when I try and turn them on. I checked the two grounds, one by the switch and the one in the engine bay and they are perfect. Although the ground in the engine bay is really really long and far away from the relay and battery. I'm wondering if I move it closer or splice another ground nearby, if it will fix it. Other than that I'm stumped.
#176
its probably not the ground. if there was a problem with the ground, the fogs just wouldn't work, it wouldn't blow the fuse. It sounds like something is shoting out, so its probably going to be something in the power wire or any other wire that shows +12V. check the entire wire and make sure there are no places that the shielding was cut or stripped. and check everywhere that you made any connections and make sure they are completely covered. If there is just one tiny place that the wire is exposed and touches the chassis or the other wire, then it would instantly blow the fuse.
did you have to run your own wires through the firewall? did you use a grommet?
did you have to run your own wires through the firewall? did you use a grommet?
#177
Hello everyone,
I apologize for my absence over the past couple months. I've been super busy with work and school. Haven't had much time for anything lately but I've decided to keep this build thread going. I've made steady progress on the car recently as well as compiling parts for my motor build.
The couple of last times I posted I only had the d16z6 head. But then I bought a complete jdm d15b motor with only 60k miles on it. I sold the z6 head and have began buying replacement/build parts. I will post a re-edited version of the list of things I have planned to purchased and have done on the new motor.
As for the car, I got the OEM mudguards, GSR cloth seats instead of the del sols, Blox Silver Rear LCA's, and bought some H&R lowering springs for when I get some Tokico blues in the spring. I recently purchased but haven't received a mugen style front lip, Silver Benen Radiator Stay, 10000k Hid's, Custom Braided Ground wire for the engine bay(sick of the one I made) and a Beaks Gold rear lower tie bar. Although, today I got an email saying the Beaks bars are on back order so I think I'll get a sway bar kit while I wait for them to get more tie bars.
Now, on to the motor build.
First I will list the parts and Second will be the machine work/other things.
Bold=Purchased
JDM D15b Motor Build
Ex/Si Tranny
P28 ECU Chipped and on P08 maps
Excedy or Competition Stage 1 Clutch
OEM Timing belt & Tensioner
OEM Water Pump
OEM D16y8 3 layer Aluminum Head Gasket
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket & Tube Seals
OEM NGK Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap & Rotor
FRAM PVC Valve
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
OEM Flywheel Bolts
OEM P29 Domed Pistons
OEM P29 Piston Rings
Brian Crower Stage 2 Camshaft
SuperTech Ti Valve Springs and Retainers
D15b7 ACL Main Bearings
D16z6 ACL Rod Bearings
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gear
NGK O2 Sensor
OEM Valve Cover Bolts
Oil Pan Gasket
Bomz Racing Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley
Machine Work
Head - Port & Polish, Hot Tanked and Milled
Block - Bored & Honed .25 to .50 over
Crank - Micro-Polished and Machined
Block & Crank - Balanced & Blueprinted (My dad was telling me about this, I'm not sure on all the details yet)
Tune
Shotpeened Rods
I will begin to have the machine work done here soon in the next couple weeks. Yes, I do know that I could make more power for my money by boosting or going B-series. But, I don't know anyone where I live with a built single cam motor and I would love to have one regardless of the other options I have. I'm looking to make 11.5:1 compression so that means I need to make sure that next to nothing is milled from the head, just enough to ensure its flat. I do have to drive this 30 miles to and from work 5 days a week. I still have a ton of stuff to figure out so feel free to ask questions or give ideas. I will post pictures of the car and parts I have in the next couple days and look forward to enjoying the forum once again.
I apologize for my absence over the past couple months. I've been super busy with work and school. Haven't had much time for anything lately but I've decided to keep this build thread going. I've made steady progress on the car recently as well as compiling parts for my motor build.
The couple of last times I posted I only had the d16z6 head. But then I bought a complete jdm d15b motor with only 60k miles on it. I sold the z6 head and have began buying replacement/build parts. I will post a re-edited version of the list of things I have planned to purchased and have done on the new motor.
As for the car, I got the OEM mudguards, GSR cloth seats instead of the del sols, Blox Silver Rear LCA's, and bought some H&R lowering springs for when I get some Tokico blues in the spring. I recently purchased but haven't received a mugen style front lip, Silver Benen Radiator Stay, 10000k Hid's, Custom Braided Ground wire for the engine bay(sick of the one I made) and a Beaks Gold rear lower tie bar. Although, today I got an email saying the Beaks bars are on back order so I think I'll get a sway bar kit while I wait for them to get more tie bars.
Now, on to the motor build.
First I will list the parts and Second will be the machine work/other things.
Bold=Purchased
JDM D15b Motor Build
Ex/Si Tranny
P28 ECU Chipped and on P08 maps
Excedy or Competition Stage 1 Clutch
OEM Timing belt & Tensioner
OEM Water Pump
OEM D16y8 3 layer Aluminum Head Gasket
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket & Tube Seals
OEM NGK Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap & Rotor
FRAM PVC Valve
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
OEM Flywheel Bolts
OEM P29 Domed Pistons
OEM P29 Piston Rings
Brian Crower Stage 2 Camshaft
SuperTech Ti Valve Springs and Retainers
D15b7 ACL Main Bearings
D16z6 ACL Rod Bearings
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gear
NGK O2 Sensor
OEM Valve Cover Bolts
Oil Pan Gasket
Bomz Racing Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley
Machine Work
Head - Port & Polish, Hot Tanked and Milled
Block - Bored & Honed .25 to .50 over
Crank - Micro-Polished and Machined
Block & Crank - Balanced & Blueprinted (My dad was telling me about this, I'm not sure on all the details yet)
Tune
Shotpeened Rods
I will begin to have the machine work done here soon in the next couple weeks. Yes, I do know that I could make more power for my money by boosting or going B-series. But, I don't know anyone where I live with a built single cam motor and I would love to have one regardless of the other options I have. I'm looking to make 11.5:1 compression so that means I need to make sure that next to nothing is milled from the head, just enough to ensure its flat. I do have to drive this 30 miles to and from work 5 days a week. I still have a ton of stuff to figure out so feel free to ask questions or give ideas. I will post pictures of the car and parts I have in the next couple days and look forward to enjoying the forum once again.