I don't think any accessories can be used with a H22 motor into an EK. I for sure know that P/S will not work as the crank basically sits directly under the frame rail. However, I did not need to bang in the frame rail for the installation of the motor. It is an extremely tight fit and took me and buddy over 8 hours to actually get the motor into the bay with all three mounts bolted down. It was a nightmare. However, it may have been due to the mounts i was using. I opted for the slightly cheaper Innovative Mounts instead of Hasports.

Shandles is right about boosting a H motor. The sleeves are made from a FRM material and cannot handle the extra pressure usually. Many people boosting H's get them replaced with iron sleeves.

 

I know about the H swaps I just dont feel like going through all that trouble and not having a K20, haha. About the roll bar, that is still on the drawing table and I will be doing track days at the road course everyonce in a while (probably like twice a year, if im lucky).

Thanks for everyones input and compliments.

Still hoping to have the swaybars and ASR subframe brace within a month if i dont buy anything stupid, lol

Edit: Actually harness bars are looking really good right now. $130 vs $1,100 that i was quoted for a full cage sounds pretty freaking good. Also i do see what you guys mean and at that price im not really going to argue

-Harness bar it is! haha

So the list of things to buy in the near future is
-Swaybars and ASR subframe brace (really, really soon)
-Interior sh*t
-figure out an engine
-thats as far as ive figured it out for now haha

 

Don't buy anything stupid!!! I have the ASR brace, 24mm sway bar, and spherical endlinks on my coupe and LOVED it. Of course, I haven't driven the car in like 2 + months, so thus the reason I used past tense :/



Do eeet noaw

 

Oooohhhh, Aaahhhhh me likey, me likey a lot!!!

Yeah that is the plan and I am really close to it next tuesday is payday so hopefully i can get me some o' themz.

Just traded my ebay type r grill that fit like **** for a nintendo dsi with 9 games like 2 days ago and sold that for 60 bucks and just sold all the stock suspension **** for 60 dolla's so im makin my moneyz!

Im really excited to get those cuz the car would be so awesome to drive, it already is with the stiffer springs cant imagine not having any body roll!

Then i got to spend money on my seats, steering wheel, Takata harness, harness bar and the rest of my interior crap

 

I've read about people making a custom p/s bracket and running a serpintine belt. If its not true, I'll be super sad and will end up going with the b18b... because I really want to retain p/s....

*edit* - omg, I totally forgot to mention: I'm going H2B, not just a regular H22 swap. With the QSD kit, I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not. I can't remember... crap. (need to do some more reading...)


*double edit* Heres what I'm talking about: "Other than that, another option would be to run it off the same belt as the alternator. But that would require a custom powersteering pump bracket. It would need to be moved inwards toward the headers about an inch or so." (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=40603539)

Also, this: http://ht-archive.org/showthread.php?p=44460680

 

So my wallet, you guys, and my friends have convinced me to do B-Swap since it is so much cheaper. With 4k the plan is to get a gsr swap, rebuild engine and transmission, get some bolt ons and exhaust. Does that sound doable guys? The first thing on the list is the ASR stuff and a front sway bar then engine and then interior and finally slight body work and paint.

 

Sounds good. I doubt you need a bigger front sway bar though.

 

Well I wanna go with an Eibach 24mm front sway bar to go with the asr rear one.

 

Front sway bar is unneccesary to upgrade, all you need is a rear and the steering is great. Unless you are a pro autocrosser/track racer you won't even notice the difference, a service writer at my work is a semi pro autocrosser and used to have an ef and he still ran stock front sway bar. The one thing you can do that'll make a HUGE difference in the front is to but an Energy front sway bar endlink kit, usually like $15. The old endlink bushings are going to be cracked and pretty f'ed, putting the new poly bushing'ed endlinks on will be a really good plus. I have just about everything suspension on my on my car... and I don't plan on upgrading the front sway bar. I've got a full Energy bushing kit, Blox upper control arm, KYB AGX struts and Ground Control coilovers, Blox rear lca, Beaks bar, 14mm sway bar, Blox endlinks, and strut tower bars and lower lca brace on the front, only thing missing is a rear subframe brace. My car handles like a dream, may be getting a new itr sway bar from work and a brace in the future.