idle is perfect but surges at light throttle?
#1
idle is perfect but surges at light throttle?
So I had an idle hunting condition before. Cleaned my IACV and FIAV. now it idles perfect but if i put say 15-25% throttle it surges really really bad. The entire vehicle shakes and when in gear lunges forward then engine breaks which is very very hard to drive. I have only driven it around the block once and it was bad. Any idea what could cause this??
basic info
1995 civic ex
d16z6
new parts/mods
Spark plugs
wires
timing belt
water pump
head milled
blox valves
BC springs
3 angle job
gaskets all over
piston rings
rod bearings
oil pan
if there is any more information you need ask and ill do my best to get it for you.
here is a video of the surging, this is the best i can do and the quality still sucks... civic idle surging right above idle - YouTube
basic info
1995 civic ex
d16z6
new parts/mods
Spark plugs
wires
timing belt
water pump
head milled
blox valves
BC springs
3 angle job
gaskets all over
piston rings
rod bearings
oil pan
if there is any more information you need ask and ill do my best to get it for you.
here is a video of the surging, this is the best i can do and the quality still sucks... civic idle surging right above idle - YouTube
#2
could be a bad TPS, throttle position sensor.
To test, you grab a multimeter and stick a paper clip or staple inside the connector where the wire goes in on the positive wire.
Find a body gound, stick your negative on the multimeter there, and take your red/positive lead onto the wire going to the tps.
turn car to on, don't start, and take voltage readings. At closed/idle you should read around .48 volts.
As you slowly open throttle body the voltage should increase, smoothly all the way until you get to wide open throttle which will read around 4.5 volts.
My guess is that with the throttle partially open you'll read an open in the circuit and as you get to a good spot on the TPS the car picks up again where it left off, causing it the buck or surge.
if you have an opens while reading across the entire TPS, you'll need to replace your TPS and calibrate it to factory specs after you install it.
here's a link how to calibrate. Just note that you only need to probe the positive wire of your TPS, use body ground for the negative as that's one less wire you have to fit a little pin in the connector.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2947986
I just did my tps today after replacing it, car felt like it would lose power upon quick acceleration then pick up. Now it just takes off smoothly and there's no jerking.
To test, you grab a multimeter and stick a paper clip or staple inside the connector where the wire goes in on the positive wire.
Find a body gound, stick your negative on the multimeter there, and take your red/positive lead onto the wire going to the tps.
turn car to on, don't start, and take voltage readings. At closed/idle you should read around .48 volts.
As you slowly open throttle body the voltage should increase, smoothly all the way until you get to wide open throttle which will read around 4.5 volts.
My guess is that with the throttle partially open you'll read an open in the circuit and as you get to a good spot on the TPS the car picks up again where it left off, causing it the buck or surge.
if you have an opens while reading across the entire TPS, you'll need to replace your TPS and calibrate it to factory specs after you install it.
here's a link how to calibrate. Just note that you only need to probe the positive wire of your TPS, use body ground for the negative as that's one less wire you have to fit a little pin in the connector.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2947986
I just did my tps today after replacing it, car felt like it would lose power upon quick acceleration then pick up. Now it just takes off smoothly and there's no jerking.
Last edited by inthezoneac; 12-08-2012 at 06:26 PM.
#4
well next thing I'd do is check your ignition coil inside the distributor.
Between + and - on the coil it should be around .7 ohms
between + and the little spring it should be 13,200-19,800 ohms.
Mine went bad about a year ago, I was somehow getting meg ohms, which is crazy high.
Between + and - on the coil it should be around .7 ohms
between + and the little spring it should be 13,200-19,800 ohms.
Mine went bad about a year ago, I was somehow getting meg ohms, which is crazy high.
#5
ok its getting warm today. So i went out there. tested tps at sensor. good. tested at ecu. good. got stumped. started car. tested tps sensor when my car is part throttle so it goes up and down. and what do you know the volt meter is all over the place. so does this mean i need a new tps? or wiring? or something else.
and to chase. there is only one o2 that i know of. and its in my header. and there is no CEL cause i have no cluster/dash. And there is no OBD port on a 95 to get it read. its a series of flashes when you hook a few wires togerther. but like i said no cluster/dash/anything inside.
and to chase. there is only one o2 that i know of. and its in my header. and there is no CEL cause i have no cluster/dash. And there is no OBD port on a 95 to get it read. its a series of flashes when you hook a few wires togerther. but like i said no cluster/dash/anything inside.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
12153dad
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
0
10-04-2013 03:29 AM
1badmanx
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
1
11-30-2005 01:10 PM