Port and polished head
#15
RE: Port and polished head
ORIGINAL: Hailchristian
BTW...wtf are you gunna finish your turbo build? I read your entire thread and i was getting stoked then it just stopped.
im looking to do the same thing your doing...but not take 3 and a half years to do it
BTW...wtf are you gunna finish your turbo build? I read your entire thread and i was getting stoked then it just stopped.
im looking to do the same thing your doing...but not take 3 and a half years to do it
good luck if you're gonna take a project on yourself dude!
#16
RE: Port and polished head
I know the browntops and blacktops aren't compatible, but what's the difference. From the picture, it looked like the coolant lines were different, and there might've been some sensors on one that weren't on the other. BTW, you could check the head for straightness yourself by putting a straightedge diagonally across the surface of the head. Then you slip a feeler gauge under the middle. You use the smallest setting first and work your way up until you can't slip a thicker gauge underneath. There's a spec that's mentioned in my Chilton's on what the tolerance is, but it's probably different from engine to engine. You should check your service manual for that spec.
To answer your earlier question, I got my head milled at a machine shop in Southern California for $30, I believe. This was at C&Q auto, I believe they're a national chain? I've read that another way to fix warpage is to bake your head in an oven at ~300 degrees F for an hour, then let it cool down. This is supposed to soften the metal so it can straighten out on its own. I haven't done that myself so I can't say what kind of results you'll get with it.
To answer your earlier question, I got my head milled at a machine shop in Southern California for $30, I believe. This was at C&Q auto, I believe they're a national chain? I've read that another way to fix warpage is to bake your head in an oven at ~300 degrees F for an hour, then let it cool down. This is supposed to soften the metal so it can straighten out on its own. I haven't done that myself so I can't say what kind of results you'll get with it.
#17
RE: Port and polished head
Thanks for the info!
This browntop turns out to be from a USDM integra. if you look at the picture, you can see that the distributer mouns, Cam sensor, and even the valve cover mounts are different. Its bogus...oh well..
My dad got my head recurfaced and presure tested today and they said the valves are all good which is good news. So im gunna order up some ARP headstuds and go from there.
BLING!
This browntop turns out to be from a USDM integra. if you look at the picture, you can see that the distributer mouns, Cam sensor, and even the valve cover mounts are different. Its bogus...oh well..
My dad got my head recurfaced and presure tested today and they said the valves are all good which is good news. So im gunna order up some ARP headstuds and go from there.
BLING!
#18
RE: Port and polished head
just ordered my arp head studs and my dad took my head into a machinist today. they recerfaced the head, cleaned off most of the ugly *** blue paint that was on it and compression checked the valves. My valves are good, and head is nice and shiny!
couldn't hold my camera still for ****..stumach was running on empty
couldn't hold my camera still for ****..stumach was running on empty
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