was wonderin after building up my bottom end today and doing some more research whether i should remove my golden eagle block guard or will this ruin all my reboring and machine work? worried bout heat build up! also when i put it in the guard wouldnt go down into thewaterjacketwith ease and is been machined flat with no gap from head gasket to blockguard, im thinkin that a gap would be benifial for coolant to run round and help cooling!
thanks, heres a piccy of the block built


[IMG]local://upfiles/16048/D5DBA6F7B5B245B7BD9E4D6D2DA6E9FD.jpg[/IMG]

 

You got me curious so I read up about this on google. Maybe there's an answer in the forums, but searching in google's easier for me

I got the information from the following site, I highly recommend reading through it entirely since it's informative:

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...ork/index.html

I've included the part relevant to your block guards. Note the bold.

"The block guard is highly regarded by some people and sworn at by others. I tend to be in the swearing category. For one, there are a lot of misconceptions of how to install a block guard, due to some misleading articles in the enthusiast press. One article showed a block guard being installed in a completely assembled, still-in-the-car engine merely by tapping it in place with a hammer. This sort of installation greatly distorts the upper part of the cylinder bore by up to several thousands of an inch, causing poor ring seal at best and seizing at worst. One very well known Quick Class competitor had his block and cylinders crack right at the point where the block guard was installed, probably because of the cylinder distortion and the huge stress riser the block guard created. There were also signs of seizure on both the piston and the cylinder wall in the area of the block guard.If a block guard is to be used, the best way to install it would be the way JG and other engine builders do it. They hand fit the block guard to the block for a close fit before any other machining operations are done to the block. The block guard is then TIG welded in place. Skip welding is used to minimize distortion to the rest of the block. After welding, the builder machines the deck of the block flat, then the final bore machining is done. In my opinion, this is the correct way for a block guard to be used. At the very minimum, the block's bores need to be machined after the block guard is installed. Again, in my opinion, a block guard should never be installed in an assembled engine that is sitting in a car with its head off; instead, it should only be installed when building a new engine and the bore honing can be done after the block guard is installed."
So to answer your first question, yes, the block guard will ruin your bore job. It's kind of bad news, but better that you find out now. For your second concern, the coolant shouldn't be a problem. A company as big as Eagle should have designed the block guard sufficiently well to allow for good cooling for the head and combustion chamber.

 

1/8 is about were i would sit it down inside the water passages around the block. you will have to redeck your block because the cylinders shift around when you install a block gaurd

 

the guard is flush on one side with the deck and slightly lower on the other, i couldnt get the guard to go any lower! the block has been rebored and decked since, i just worry the guard being high in theblock and not having that 1/8 inch coolant passing gapblocking coolant ontop of the guard! i have lookedto see if the holes match the gasket and there not bad i am doing a little filing to open it even more! also my golden eagle guard has no holes init just cut outs have a loook at my pic to see wat i mean and now look at this golden eagle block guard with holes!! i was considering modifying mine to have these holes and make more coolant come into contact wit the gasket!!