Just an update. I took it off and cleaned it today, the piece was about two full turns out from being all the way in. After cleaning it I put it back together and for once the car seemed to fast idle right on a cold start, around 1500rpm.

There is still a problem though because when the engine is warm the idle rpm seems to climb up to 1400. It will be idling warm at 1000 and then ill drive it a bit and put it in neutral and it will idle higher. Tap the gas and the idle drops back down. This is a pain in the ***! What should I check next?

 

Has the Fast Idle Valve now stopped drawing air through its throttle body port when the engine is warm? If so, check whether the throttle cable is adjusted too tightly or whether the throttle butterfly/plate is sticking.

 

I did some work on my car today to try and fix the idle problem. I was going to remove the throttle body to clean in but I wasn't sure how to take out the 4 studs holding it onto the intake manifold. Insted I took off my charge piping and sprayed cleaner in the throttle body. I cleaned out all the black carbon build-up from the throttle body and the throttle plate. There was quite a bit of dirty **** in there but I did my best cleaning it out.
I put the charge piping back on and drove it around to get the engine warm. The car started idling high when it was warm, around 1400. I tightened the idle screw in and got it down to just under 1000 when warm. It idles good when warm and it's always steady, but cold starts doesnt idle high enough and the rpms go up and down when i put it in neutral or push the clutch in. What is this?

 

Is this likely the fast idle valve? ive tried 2 used ones but they didnt work they were from civics at an autowreckers I cleaned them first but maybe they are both faulty some how. I found a new one online shipped to my for $70, almost thinking it would be worth it to try. Could it be my thermostat or coolant temp sensor? How could I check these?

 

Below is the proper procedure for setting the idle speed. You need a good tachometer to do this properly.

If the fast idle port sucks any air when the engine is warm, then the FITV is dirty or needs to be replaced.

 

So I have changed the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and they are bothing working right but it didn't fix my idle problem. It was time for it to be replaced anyways so its probably good I did it I also got to flush/bleed the coolant. It wont fast idle and the idle goes up and down when it is cold, I think im going to buy a brand new fast idle valve i found one online shipped to canada for $65. It has to be the fast idle valve right?
Just curious, if I unplug my tps sensor and it doesn't effect anything, is that my problem?

 

Does anyone know if the TPS sensor could cause this problem? Could I have just got a bad fast idle valve when I got a used one and cleaned it, should I try a brand new fast idle valve?
Also can someone tell me if its possible this is a vacuum leak even though it idles fine when warm?
Any other things I can try?

 

This link is for a B series motor, but the same steps can be done on yours. It covers about anything that could cause idle problems and has helped me in the past.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic

 

Thanks that is an awesome link! I think the TPS sensor is the problem, if I unplug it I get a check engine light but i can idle it and drive it unplugged and it drives the same. Doesn't seem to matter whether its plugged in or not, could this be the problem? I need a voltmeter I guess...

 

Ok I think the throttle body is my problem. The throttle (throttle butterfly I think it's called) on the outside of the throttle body that can be pulled to rev the car, isn't as far back as it should be. What I mean is I can push it towards the intake manifold and my idle will drop a few hundred rpms. Then if I cover both holes in the throttle body it will stall. But if I cover both holes in the throttle body without pushing the throttle back it wont stall as if there was a vacuum leak or a throttle sticking open?