Street tuning
#12
04-11-2007, 10:27 AM
RE: Street tuning
ORIGINAL: MY99SI
with hondata s300 you dont need anyhting but a laptop to tune it. the wideband helps but becides that you dont need anything else but a laptop to tune it with.
with hondata s300 you dont need anyhting but a laptop to tune it. the wideband helps but becides that you dont need anything else but a laptop to tune it with.
#13
04-11-2007, 12:26 PM
RE: Street tuning
If my ECU wasn't such a pain in the *** to pull out, I'd take some pictures to give you a visual reference of what is going on. I'm going to be tuning someone this Sunday/Monday so if I remember I'll take some pics of what's going on.
All in all the concept is pretty simple as far as hardware goes. You have an ECU that has a 28 pin connection desoldered and replaced with what is called a ".zif" socket. Said socket is pushed into place in the pins (normally isn't soldered, just plugged). There is a little lever on the socket that clamps the chips in place.
For street tuning you start out with just getting the car to idle. Sometimes the car fires up and runs, other time the car fires up and dies immediately. Basically you have to make adjustments to the map until the car runs. Keep tuning it until you have a good solid idle at the correct AFRs depending on how cold your spark plugs are and how wide your gap is etc. Then you tune partial throttle the same way. Drive the car around, find where it's going lean/rich and make adjustments according to vacuum readings, rpms, and AFRs. Datalogging helps a TON with this. Once you get your partial throttle down... get another set of eyes.
Do a 3rd or 4th gear pull for WOT! 2nd just makes it impossible, you're moving through the RPMs fast and the AFRs go nuts. The reason I say get a second pair of eyes is so that one can drive and watch the road, and the other can keep an eye on the RPMs and AFRs. If you're by yourself you have to be careful, but again datalogging is really nice to have. If the car goes too far lean at any point in time, you let off immediately. Generally when the car goes lean it will keep getting leaner really fast.
Each time you want to make a change, you have to pull the chip out of the .zif socket, and drop it into the burner. Erase the chip, burn the new maps onto it, and place it back in the ECU. Royal pain in the ***, but if you have a realtime emulator you can just click and immediately change the maps on the fly... which is really nice and something I really need to get. Then, after you're completely done you can burn a final chip and put it in the .zif socket and button everything up.
Obviously there's a lot more to that, you do NOT tune timing on the street. Only fuel, a dyno is used for timing changes. And also, you do NOT tune a car if you do not have a wideband, I don't care how good you think you are it shouldn't be done.
Hope that gives you a better idea.
All in all the concept is pretty simple as far as hardware goes. You have an ECU that has a 28 pin connection desoldered and replaced with what is called a ".zif" socket. Said socket is pushed into place in the pins (normally isn't soldered, just plugged). There is a little lever on the socket that clamps the chips in place.
For street tuning you start out with just getting the car to idle. Sometimes the car fires up and runs, other time the car fires up and dies immediately. Basically you have to make adjustments to the map until the car runs. Keep tuning it until you have a good solid idle at the correct AFRs depending on how cold your spark plugs are and how wide your gap is etc. Then you tune partial throttle the same way. Drive the car around, find where it's going lean/rich and make adjustments according to vacuum readings, rpms, and AFRs. Datalogging helps a TON with this. Once you get your partial throttle down... get another set of eyes.
Do a 3rd or 4th gear pull for WOT! 2nd just makes it impossible, you're moving through the RPMs fast and the AFRs go nuts. The reason I say get a second pair of eyes is so that one can drive and watch the road, and the other can keep an eye on the RPMs and AFRs. If you're by yourself you have to be careful, but again datalogging is really nice to have. If the car goes too far lean at any point in time, you let off immediately. Generally when the car goes lean it will keep getting leaner really fast.
Each time you want to make a change, you have to pull the chip out of the .zif socket, and drop it into the burner. Erase the chip, burn the new maps onto it, and place it back in the ECU. Royal pain in the ***, but if you have a realtime emulator you can just click and immediately change the maps on the fly... which is really nice and something I really need to get. Then, after you're completely done you can burn a final chip and put it in the .zif socket and button everything up.
Obviously there's a lot more to that, you do NOT tune timing on the street. Only fuel, a dyno is used for timing changes. And also, you do NOT tune a car if you do not have a wideband, I don't care how good you think you are it shouldn't be done.
Hope that gives you a better idea.
#15
04-11-2007, 12:42 PM
RE: Street tuning
Thank you Forty, exactly what i'm talking about. The blue part is the .zif socket, and the chip is sitting inside of it.
#17
03-07-2008, 07:42 PM
RE: Street tuning
ORIGINAL: SovXietday
Obviously there's a lot more to that, you do NOT tune timing on the street. Only fuel, a dyno is used for timing changes. And also, you do NOT tune a car if you do not have a wideband, I don't care how good you think you are it shouldn't be done.
Hope that gives you a better idea.
Obviously there's a lot more to that, you do NOT tune timing on the street. Only fuel, a dyno is used for timing changes. And also, you do NOT tune a car if you do not have a wideband, I don't care how good you think you are it shouldn't be done.
Hope that gives you a better idea.
#18
04-17-2008, 08:11 AM
RE: Street tuning
ORIGINAL: SovXietday
If my ECU wasn't such a pain in the *** to pull out, I'd take some pictures to give you a visual reference of what is going on. I'm going to be tuning someone this Sunday/Monday so if I remember I'll take some pics of what's going on.
All in all the concept is pretty simple as far as hardware goes. You have an ECU that has a 28 pin connection desoldered and replaced with what is called a ".zif" socket. Said socket is pushed into place in the pins (normally isn't soldered, just plugged). There is a little lever on the socket that clamps the chips in place.
For street tuning you start out with just getting the car to idle. Sometimes the car fires up and runs, other time the car fires up and dies immediately. Basically you have to make adjustments to the map until the car runs. Keep tuning it until you have a good solid idle at the correct AFRs depending on how cold your spark plugs are and how wide your gap is etc. Then you tune partial throttle the same way. Drive the car around, find where it's going lean/rich and make adjustments according to vacuum readings, rpms, and AFRs. Datalogging helps a TON with this. Once you get your partial throttle down... get another set of eyes.
Do a 3rd or 4th gear pull for WOT! 2nd just makes it impossible, you're moving through the RPMs fast and the AFRs go nuts. The reason I say get a second pair of eyes is so that one can drive and watch the road, and the other can keep an eye on the RPMs and AFRs. If you're by yourself you have to be careful, but again datalogging is really nice to have. If the car goes too far lean at any point in time, you let off immediately. Generally when the car goes lean it will keep getting leaner really fast.
Each time you want to make a change, you have to pull the chip out of the .zif socket, and drop it into the burner. Erase the chip, burn the new maps onto it, and place it back in the ECU. Royal pain in the ***, but if you have a realtime emulator you can just click and immediately change the maps on the fly... which is really nice and something I really need to get. Then, after you're completely done you can burn a final chip and put it in the .zif socket and button everything up.
Obviously there's a lot more to that, you do NOT tune timing on the street. Only fuel, a dyno is used for timing changes. And also, you do NOT tune a car if you do not have a wideband, I don't care how good you think you are it shouldn't be done.
Hope that gives you a better idea.
If my ECU wasn't such a pain in the *** to pull out, I'd take some pictures to give you a visual reference of what is going on. I'm going to be tuning someone this Sunday/Monday so if I remember I'll take some pics of what's going on.
All in all the concept is pretty simple as far as hardware goes. You have an ECU that has a 28 pin connection desoldered and replaced with what is called a ".zif" socket. Said socket is pushed into place in the pins (normally isn't soldered, just plugged). There is a little lever on the socket that clamps the chips in place.
For street tuning you start out with just getting the car to idle. Sometimes the car fires up and runs, other time the car fires up and dies immediately. Basically you have to make adjustments to the map until the car runs. Keep tuning it until you have a good solid idle at the correct AFRs depending on how cold your spark plugs are and how wide your gap is etc. Then you tune partial throttle the same way. Drive the car around, find where it's going lean/rich and make adjustments according to vacuum readings, rpms, and AFRs. Datalogging helps a TON with this. Once you get your partial throttle down... get another set of eyes.
Do a 3rd or 4th gear pull for WOT! 2nd just makes it impossible, you're moving through the RPMs fast and the AFRs go nuts. The reason I say get a second pair of eyes is so that one can drive and watch the road, and the other can keep an eye on the RPMs and AFRs. If you're by yourself you have to be careful, but again datalogging is really nice to have. If the car goes too far lean at any point in time, you let off immediately. Generally when the car goes lean it will keep getting leaner really fast.
Each time you want to make a change, you have to pull the chip out of the .zif socket, and drop it into the burner. Erase the chip, burn the new maps onto it, and place it back in the ECU. Royal pain in the ***, but if you have a realtime emulator you can just click and immediately change the maps on the fly... which is really nice and something I really need to get. Then, after you're completely done you can burn a final chip and put it in the .zif socket and button everything up.
Obviously there's a lot more to that, you do NOT tune timing on the street. Only fuel, a dyno is used for timing changes. And also, you do NOT tune a car if you do not have a wideband, I don't care how good you think you are it shouldn't be done.
Hope that gives you a better idea.
When NOT using an emulator, you will have to burn the chip, put it in the car, try it out, remove the chip, make some changes, burn and reinstall the chip, etc. When burning a chip, you never have to erase it before burning it... The new tune will be burned over the last tune, therefore erasing the old tune automatically. Burning takes about 5 seconds...
Timing adjustments while street tuning, completely doable as long as you somewhat know what your doing and make very small changes at a time. Although it is extremely beneficial to tune timing on a dyno, then you just adjust timing until your torque curve starts dropping off, then just back timing down a degree or two from there...
I use Crome on my 99EX boosted D16, and the real time tuning with the emulator(Ostrich)is so much easier and faster. I make all my changes on the fly in real time and when I get my tune perfect, just burn a chip and install, done! Crome Pro offers datalogging, which would make things MUCH MUCH MUCH easier and safer, especially when street tuning.
WIDEBAND IS A MUST!!! NO IF'S AND's or BUT's about it....KABOOM!!!! EGT sensor is also very useful for timing adjustments, especially while street tuning.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
etarted
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade Classifieds
1
03-01-2005 01:19 AM
