Okay,
Many of you might ask......WHY?
I am reverting to stock.
My reasons......No A/C. I have the condenser and fan in the back trunk and it's going to be a daily driver and I don't want the hassle of maintaining a turbo setup. My previous car had a turbo setup and I was just tired of the high maintainance standards.
What I want to know is, How can I tell if the ECU has been chipped.
Now I was reading up on the OBD1 and OBD2 in the ECU FAQs
I was also doing research on the D16Y8 Engine on Wikipedia.com
Now, my Civic is a 1994 EG4 series. In my research I found that the D16Y8, which is the heart of my car, is found in the 96 Civics which means that I have a swapped engine.....please correct me if I'm wrong.
From what I understand....The 96-98 Hondas are OBD2 and that the ECU can't be chipped, or at least, it is not recommended.
So then, I assume...not making an *** out of u and me, that i should be able to take down my turbo setup and just bolt back up my headers with out any problems.
RIGHT or WRONG?

 

Oh another reason.....I'm broke right now......just finished renovating my house and I have to get this car on the road as my wife and I are juggling one car.

 

help........please

 

yep, your engine was swapped.

You are correct, OBD2 cannot be chipped.


Figure out what ECU you have first.


"All Honda ECUs have a part number which is located on the side of the ECU and inside the ECU on the connector. e.g. 37820-P72-A01

The part number consists of three components:

Honda's part number for ECU, which is always 37820
Three characters (which are loosely related to the model of car/engine). e.g P72
Three characters (which are the revision of the ECU) e.g. A01 or G52
The middle three characters are the most useful to identify what the ECU is. Different generation ECUs may use the same characters. e.g. a P72 OBD I ECU is different from a P72 OBD II ECU. Here is a list of common ECUs:

The last 3 characters are broken down into 3 parts. "A" generally is used for US ECUs. "G" is European, and "J" is Japanese. There are other versions of this, but you get the idea. The second digit "0" typically means manual transmission, where a "5" means automatic transmission, and the last digit "1" is the version number."



We need you to tell us the middle 3 characters (P_ _)



http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html

 

Okay,
I'm making some headway here.
I finally caught up with the guy who previously owned the car and he said that the ECU is the OBD2 and he did not chip it. I also found out from him that the pistons are WISECO and the rods are EAGLE and the camshaft is still stock. He said also the the stock compression ratio was 9:6 and it was changed to 9:1.
Now, I'm not familiar with compression ratios, as this is my first time getting into discussion on this. So what is the "Compression Ratio." I mean I am still going to research it but just a crash course would be nice.
Anywhooo....so now that we found out this info.....is it safe to say that I can just put on the headers and intake and she should run fine?
Thanks again

 

Yea, if you remove the turbo setup i would think it should run fine. Even though the CR was changed, I think that since it was lowered it won't make a difference because it'll just make the engine easier to run without detonation than if it had stock compression.

I need someone to confirm this though.



Just make sure you remove any possible fuel system modifications such as aftermarket injectors or fuel pump.

 

ok mang....thanks.