I own a 2002 Civic EX. I would like to give you a brief history on this vehicle to let you all know where I stand now. In February 2007 my car was hit by a snow plow and it was a hit and run. The insurance company totaled it out and being it seemed to be only cosmetic damage because it was still drivable I decided to purchase it back from the insurance company for $1,500. In March I had the car fixed for $2,300 and it looked really good, not perfect but good. In June the transmission **** the bed and the car was undrivable and I did not have the money to get the car fixed. So the car sat until October and I finally had the transmission rebuilt. After getting it back from the transmission people I had to bring it back eight times and they had to drop the transmission an additional four times to get it right. It actually worked out for me because in the end they replaced every part of the transmission. All this leads me up till my situation now. After I got the car back from the transmission people and it worked properly the check engine light was coming on and off. The light would only come when the car was standing after being driven. The light would come on every other day or so. I brought the car back to the transmission people because one the car had a slight transmission leak and two I wanted them to preform a NYS inspection on it. They informed me that they were unable to do the inspection because of the codes and I needed a new ECM and only the dealer could do that. The car itself drives good and highly doubt I need a new ECM. I've tried to reset the ESM by disconnecting the battery, ECM fuse and back up fuse but it does not work. I used an OBD II scanner and tried to erase the codes but that too failed. Tonight I noticed that the negative cable going to the battery was extremelyfrayed underneath the battery platform. Is it possible that this is causing these the codes?
Any info from those who are qualified will be gladly accepted. Thank you.

 

Would you be able to post a picture of the frayed battery cable? Are you also experiencing any types of electrical problems? Is the charge on your battery low?

I am a bit concerned by your inability to clear the ECM by multiple methods and your retrieval of code P0131, which I was unable to find. This seems like a potential ECM issue.

P1298 is a code for problems with the Electrical Load Detector (ELD). One of multiple potential causes for this code could be that fuse #4 (10A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box is blown. Check this possibility.

 

I do not have a picture of the frayed wire just yet but picture this. It looked like a power wirethat has been ground. The insulation is totally off of it. Is the #4 fuse you speak of the alternator fuse? I have used this fuse for the remote switch on an amp I have in the trunk. I have used it for about two years but disconnected it once this problem occured.

As for the code P0131 this is what I have found out about from another website:

P0131 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-11) The HO2S sensor is monitored for a negative voltage known as characteristic shift downward (CSD). If the sensor is thought to be switching from 0 volts to -1 volts during testing, the PCM will use this input and remain in fuel control. Contaminated HO2S (water, fuel, etc)
Crossed HO2S signal/signal return wiring

It is my understanding correct me if I'm wrong but Honda ECM are very good units and they are unlikely to die.

Thanks for the information it is very much appreciated.

 

Well I would replace that battery ground wire regardless.

Sorry, I wasn't sure what you meant about fuse #4. Did you remove the amp or the fuse? Fuse #4 controls many circuits, including the Air/fuel ratio sensor relay (similar to primary oxygen sensor), alternator, ELD unit, and secondary oxygen sensor circuits (see picture). Removal of the fuse (or if it is blown) could potentially explain your constant Check Engine Light (CEL) codes.

I Googled code P0131 and found the same; however, this code is not found in the 2002-3 Civic service manual (see second picture), so I thought it was unusual. What device did you use to retrieve it? Perhaps P0131 is a generic primary oxygen sensor trouble code and, for your car, refers to the Air/fuel ratio sensor.

I agree, it is uncommon for the ECM to go bad, so address the obvious other problems first and see if the potential concern about the ECM proves unfounded. I could post instructions for troubleshooting the ECM itself at a later point, if necessary.

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Update:
Yes you are correct with fuse #4, this is the fuse that I was using for the amp. What I did was run a speaker wire from the trunk to the fuse panel. I wrapped the fuse with the wire and plugged it in. I know this is not the smartest thing in the world to do but I have done this for over twelve years to various cars and have never had a problem. Nonetheless it is detached none and fuse is correctly inserted into the fuse panel and the fuse is good.

This morning I checked underneath the hoodin the fuse boxand discovered that fuse #20 which has a 40 amp fuse was blown. I'm not sure what amp #20 does but it is an unusual fuse that I'm not used. Instead of being a thin rectangular fuse it is a square. The fuse panel has several of these type fuses.

Also I found this on carcompliants.com:[*]TSB #05006 -- DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P1298 IS STORED IN THE ECM/PCM. *TT (NHTSA ID #10017631, FEBRUARY 25 2005)

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/C...002/tsbs.shtml

I don not know how to interpet this but I thought I would put it out there.

Thanks for yourreply and information Ronj.

 

I got the CEL codes using autozones OBD II scanner

 

Fuse #20 in the under-hood fuse/relay box is for the ignition switch circuit (see picture). This seems very important, though I am trying to figure out if this blown fuse could cause your CEL code problem. Did you yet replace the blown fuse and, if so, did it have any effect on your problems? Perhaps your suspected battery cable shorting problem is linked to the blown fuse?

Edit: Fuse #20 is upstream of fuse #4 in the circuit (see second picture)-- a potential link to your problem. However, it seems to me that, with a blown fuse #20, you would not get any power when you turn the ignition switch ON. At this point, I would check many other fuses in both fuse boxes (e.g., fuse #10 in the under-dash fuse/relay box).

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No I haven't replaced fuse yet. Is this type of fuse available at any parts store or do I have to get it from Honda? I ask because I'm used to the traditional fuses that most cars have and which this one has too except for the 4 in the relay box.

 

See edit in my previous post. Also, I would think that autoparts store would carry the fuse -- just call and ask to save yourself some running around.

I also am not sure what the TSB means. As an aside, the Civic service manual indicates that there is an ECM software update available for the 2002 Civic. You might want to verify that your ECM has this update.

 

After all the fuse was not blown. It is so difficult to tell until I unscrewed it and put a flash ligt on it. You were right, the car would not start if the fuse was blown because I attempted to start the car with the fuse out.
In my original post I stated that I brought my car to get inspected by the transmission shop because they needed to fix a slight leak the car had. The engine light was only coming on intermediately, maybe every other day and then would turn back off. Since it was the transmission shop the light is on permanently. Is there something they could have done? I checked all the wires that connect to the transmission and they appear to be in good shape. I also examined the rest of the wires under the hood to the best of my ability with my limited knowledge and they appear to be in satisfactory condition. I again tried disconnecting the battery along with the ECM fuse and back up fuse and pressed the brake pedal down to get ride of any other potential juice in the system to no avail. The engine light comes back on in approximentely five seconds after the car is started.
I also have examined every fuse on both panels and everything is ok. The car itself drives fine so I really am at a loss for what is happening.