Just got my car painted
#12
Spot on Tony. Additionally clay barring is actually harmful to the paint in some aspects. And brad while the paint is cure shortly after painting the reason for waiting a month or more is to let the clear coat and paint dry entirely. The Solvents in the paint need to be completely dry hence the long time period
#13
Oh...it doesn't look so bad compared to the pics...but then again they're kinda hazy. EXCEPT the fact that it doesn't match between the fender and the door but then again RED is the hardest color to match...Did he paint the door or fender separate??
#14
the camera actually makes it look worse than it is. haha, i still dont own a digital camera, just old school cell phone pics. the big thing between the fender and door is the fenders were black primer(replaced). so they show much darker than the door, which was just repainted.
im thinking of just maacoing it, it would just be a sand and paint job.
i forgot, i went into a legit body shop, asking how much just to color match the fenders. they gave me a quote of $700, thats more than half the cost of the entire job i had done.
im thinking of just maacoing it, it would just be a sand and paint job.
i forgot, i went into a legit body shop, asking how much just to color match the fenders. they gave me a quote of $700, thats more than half the cost of the entire job i had done.
Last edited by milhouse; 09-14-2010 at 09:47 PM.
#15
You NEVER take anything to Maaco. Especially a red vehicle. You're probably better off painting the car yourself if you take it there. As for the black primer if it was the replacement part primer you'd think they'd throw some grey sealer on top of it...
#17
ya WKD_DRGN, i think he used clear sealer, ive seen on youtube he should have tinted the sealer.
cost, i wanted it done for $1500, he said he'd do it for $1400 in a week. 2 months later i got my car back, and taxed him $100. however, there wasnt much body work to be done. two rust holes in both drip rails. and a dime sized rust spot on drivers side rear quarter. then just smoothing.
cost, i wanted it done for $1500, he said he'd do it for $1400 in a week. 2 months later i got my car back, and taxed him $100. however, there wasnt much body work to be done. two rust holes in both drip rails. and a dime sized rust spot on drivers side rear quarter. then just smoothing.
Last edited by milhouse; 09-19-2010 at 10:21 AM.
#18
Interesting...I've never heard of clear sealer...and I was an auto body tech. I think sealer was always gray or black, just like you can get primer in grey or black...hmmm. And it was red before right? Why the heck did he have it so long? It took MY car 8 weeks to get repainted but they did a complete color change from black to light blue. And the painted the jambs, behind the tailights, inside the trunk etc...too bad they didn't do the engine bay! lol. But still dam two months...
#19
I hate seeing everyone hate on Maaco without a reason to back it up other than they heard something bad on a forum. Every Maaco is different, just like any body shop. Some have good painters, some have ok painters, some just suck. Im fortunate enough to have one about 6 miles away from me that has 2 good painters. They have done a lot of the cars in our local scene that look sick...all of which were at Import Alliance the last two years and got a lot of attention. Check out your local Maaco, then judge.
#20
Sorry I didn't "see" it on another forum. My brother took his car to maaco someone broke into their fenced in area then into his car and stole his system and maaco did NOTHING about it. Then they did a crap job. I also applied at maaco and I'm a GOOD painter. I completely re-did a 1975 ford mustang of mine. The questions they were asking about how I paint were just bad and wrong. It was like they didn't even know how to prep the car right. They were all about churning out cars fast but without quality. Maybe every maaco isn't bad, but if you put down $500 don't expect to get much better work. You get what you pay for.