I finally got all my stuff together, I'm just waiting on my box to arrive and I can hook everything up. Heres my setup:

2 Kicker 12" CVR Subs (400RMS each @ 2ohms)
Exile x1200 amp (800RMS x 1 @ 2ohms)
4 gauge wiring (already ran all the wires including RCAs & Remote)
MDF Sealed Enclosure (waiting on)

Then I need to Dynamat the trunk, buy a capacitor, and buy a new deck, and my system is complete! (Until I decide to buy Kickders for the inside speakers and an amp to power them lol).

I'll post pictures when it's all set up, anyone have any experience with Exile amps? Some tell me they're really good, some tell me it's gonna blow on me. Thanks.

 

ditch the capacitor idea and just buy a better main battery and upgrade ground wires!
and a cheap alternative to dynamat is cheap gutter guard from menards
your problem area will be the trunk lids plastic liscence plate trim panel along with the liscence plate as well. very simple to keep the rattling down!

 

I agree with ^^^ because a cap is a WASTE of money, unless you already have one! Read here: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/452834.html to find out more about capacitors and their "usefulness".

In my car I also have an issue with the rear plastic shelf that is rattling/vibrating! I am real close to beginning my install too and kind of getting excited about it! I already used the cheap peal and seal stuff for the floor of my trunk, but I plan to use some higher dollar stuff for the trunk lid and the metal in the door. I am going to skip deadening the interior floor of the vehicle since the cost to deaden isn't worth the benefit, or lack there of, received by deadening the floor.

Thus far I have a Kinetik HC1400 and a Scosche 1/0 wiring kit for the amps. Next week I should have my Monster Cable 1/0 spool for the Big 3 upgrade, ring terminals, techflex, color coded heat shrink tubing, and a Soundstream 700s to power my subs!

My system is looking like this:

Alpine SPR-17S components for the front doors (still need to buy). I will use the Alpine SPS-600 coax speakers that I have in the mean time

Rear stage delete by saying goodbye to the useless 6x9s! If I need rear fill, I will move the SPS-600 two ways to the rear deck off of radio power.

A swappable subwoofer setup where I will use either 2 JL Audio 10w3v2 subs in a sealed box OR my 12" solo-baric L5 depending on if I am in a SQ or SPL mood. I am going for a removable subwoofer setup because I sometimes use the car to go camping. If I end up deciding that I like the 10w3v2 subs in the Civic, I will build fiberglass enclosures on each side of the trunk and have a super stealth install!

Linear Power 1502IQ for the front components/coax speakers

Soundstream Reference 700S for the Subs

I just can't decide if I want to build a false floor with fans in the trunk for my amps OR mount my amps to the back of the rear seats or under the rear deck on a shelf.

 

this is what i did on my trim panel... and used some camper shell foam and some hot glue on the liscence plate... i slaped some of that dynomat liscence plate on my plate and it didnt do a dam thing!!!!!! good thing i didnt pay for it! i won it afew years ago at a stereo comp when i had my truck.
main thing with the liscence plate is it doesnt have a attachment on the bottom... so its got about 1/4-1/2inch to just vibrate!


then put 2 strips of the foam stuff along the top and bottom of the liscence plate almost full length side to side and then with the plate mounted use a hot glue gun lightly push in the plate on the bottom, and put some hot glue right around those 2 lower lips and just let go of the plate and wipe alittle of the glue off if you put to much on it and let it cool for about 5mins before moving the trunk/plate or turning on the stereo. once the glue is cooled and stuck good your plate should be held firmly enough so it wont rattle as much.


or if you REALLY REALLY HATE TRUNK RATTLING change up your instal to a front firing setup sealed off from the trunk now that works great!!!!!
before with typical ported box
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=ih1-9pQzRrA

after front firing box.... tho audio on my camera does suck for some reason it doesnt pick up the bass very well. it picks up my interior speakers which overkill the sub, tho the new box design is just about asloud but i did loose a few of the really low bass notes. but a great compromise for the little to no trunk rattling!
and i was hiting a 136.6db new termlab with that 12inch RE SX and 1200watts.
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=1-WxFpxR_H4

 

Did you notice your SQ to be better with the direct fire in to the cabin versus your sub firing off of the trunk?

 

slightly better sq but with loosing the low lows here and there its only quality difference from the front firing was the no trunk rattle. you get alittle better SQ but you miss out on some low bass notes so it was a even swap for the sq/spl but for the no truck rattling i was very happy with the setup. plus it gave the back seat person a great back massage LOL

 

Back to the OP, the only thing I would have done differently is I would have run 1/0 wire instead of 4 gauge just in case i decided to upgrade or add on to your system at a later date. Then again, I guess you could always run another wire if you decide to add another amp for your front stage. I started running 1/0 back in 1998 "just in case" and every time it paid off!

 

well his amp should get enough power with that 4gauge kit no problem. 1200watts rms is fine but anything over 1500watts id go 0gauge or large 1/0gauge is what ive been running for the last 4years myself. but 1/0gauge is alot more money plus 4times harder to route! i have my dual 1/0wires ran under my car and up thru the back seat. very difficult to hide that fatty wire under the carpet.LOL

 

I am still trying to figure out where I am going to hide my 1/0 power wire in the Civic.... As a last ditch effort, under the car will always work.

Oddly, I didn't have issues with hiding the 1/0 in my Mustang. Go figure...

 

i ran mine under the car and zip tied up out of the way from ever scraping on anything. zip ties work alright BUT if you want something even better and dont mind drilling into the car alittle with some short self taping screws... try these out...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Wire-Man...3286.m20.l1116
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Wire-Man...3286.m20.l1116

im not positive if they will hold the 1/0gauge yet since i havent tried them yet. i got a bag of them im going to use, ive just never tried to mount them yet.