Plexi-glass box...
#22
10-06-2005, 10:49 PM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga
Forget glue. Build the box and line it with bathroom/tub caulk. Use you finger to seal all cracks inside the box.
Ngoti8tor
on't forget to drill pilot holes so the MDF doesn't split, and use carpenters glue as well.
on't forget to drill pilot holes so the MDF doesn't split, and use carpenters glue as well.I personally Prefer Liquid Nails. Oh and that guy is makin dough off those boxes cuz of the custom idea and the looks like remmy said. However, its not all profit man. Have u ever bought plexi glass? It aint cheap to come by. It is hard to cut it perfectly. Hes charging $$$$$$ bcuz u cant really get an all plexi glass box anywhere. Those boxes are RICE. I can just see it now. A 600$ plexi glass box with Rockwood subs in it, with a pyrmid amp.......and ebay strobes and neons inside the box............200 db without a doubt.
#23
10-07-2005, 02:05 AM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga
Forget glue. Build the box and line it with bathroom/tub caulk. Use you finger to seal all cracks inside the box.
Forget glue. Build the box and line it with bathroom/tub caulk. Use you finger to seal all cracks inside the box.
#24
10-07-2005, 07:33 AM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
I used general purpose acrylic caulk for my custom sub box, works great. Everything is sealed well, subs hit like a ****. Plus most people have caulk lying around in they house.
#25
10-07-2005, 09:58 AM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
Ngo, if you build properly you wont need glue, ive built more boxes than i have posts on this forum and used glue once. I can see how you can line it on the edges then screw down on top of it to make a betyter seal but ultimatley caulk will handle the conditions a lot better. Such as hunidity, extreme vibrations and warping.
#26
10-07-2005, 09:40 PM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
Other way around, if you build a proper box with glue you don't need screws because wood glue if infinitly stronger then MDF once it is dried. I personally prefer the use Gorilla glue for its sealing and adhesive properties. Glue it clamp it move on.
Concerning MDF over plexi...
People use MDF to build boxes because of the weight of it. Every object has a resonant frequency, and every item has flexibility and weight.
Flexibility and weight inversly will give you the resonance of your object. Take wood for example:
When building a subwoofer enclosure you have two choices, you can push the resonance of the wood above or below the frequencies subs play at 20-80hz. To do this you can either use extremely heavy wood that is flexible, or light wood that is extremely stiff. Marine grade birch or void-free plywood are much much superior for subwoofer enclosure making. Using this kind of wood, the enclosure will never flex due to the manufacturing process of cross laminating the fibers.
The other way is to make it heavy, heavy wood resonates at a lower frequency, therefor lower the resonant frequency below 20 and it's not a problem.
MDF is "better" because of availbility and price. Birch is $65 a sheet as opposed to $18 for MDF, but for you tuners it is alot lighter then MDF to save weight.
As for your box absorbing sound, that seems the exact opposite of what you want it to do. You use curtains in home theatres and commercial theatres for acoustic attenuation, that is converting "noise" into heat by having it move an object. Which is you want excess sound to pass through an object to muffle it's sound. "Additionally, we need to consider the internal loss. As sound passes through material boundaries, it loses energy. The more layers, and the greater the changes in density, the more energy is lost. MDF is a VERY homogeneous material - it has little internal loss. Plywood, on the other hand, has multiple layers and has considerably higher internal loss. So acoustic waves will be better attenuated by plywood than by MDF." So could you explain that theory about plexiglass a little clearer for me, I can be a little slow from time to time.
A long downfall of plexiglass is expense of the good stuff. Therefore people try to use thin stuff, which flexes like hell and will destroy the sound of a box. But going up to the above principle, make it stiff or make it heavy. If you use 1" thick lexant for a sub enclosure it will not flex, therefor it will not resonate. I have heard one of bobby gately's boxes with two JL w7s before and it sounded like any other sub enclosure to me. Yes, if the sub box is the shining star of the install and ****ty equipment is in it, yea thats rice. But its not differant then some performance parts, if that is all that is on the car, its rice, but if it is the foundation of something better, its not.
Concerning MDF over plexi...
People use MDF to build boxes because of the weight of it. Every object has a resonant frequency, and every item has flexibility and weight.
Flexibility and weight inversly will give you the resonance of your object. Take wood for example:
When building a subwoofer enclosure you have two choices, you can push the resonance of the wood above or below the frequencies subs play at 20-80hz. To do this you can either use extremely heavy wood that is flexible, or light wood that is extremely stiff. Marine grade birch or void-free plywood are much much superior for subwoofer enclosure making. Using this kind of wood, the enclosure will never flex due to the manufacturing process of cross laminating the fibers.
The other way is to make it heavy, heavy wood resonates at a lower frequency, therefor lower the resonant frequency below 20 and it's not a problem.
MDF is "better" because of availbility and price. Birch is $65 a sheet as opposed to $18 for MDF, but for you tuners it is alot lighter then MDF to save weight.
As for your box absorbing sound, that seems the exact opposite of what you want it to do. You use curtains in home theatres and commercial theatres for acoustic attenuation, that is converting "noise" into heat by having it move an object. Which is you want excess sound to pass through an object to muffle it's sound. "Additionally, we need to consider the internal loss. As sound passes through material boundaries, it loses energy. The more layers, and the greater the changes in density, the more energy is lost. MDF is a VERY homogeneous material - it has little internal loss. Plywood, on the other hand, has multiple layers and has considerably higher internal loss. So acoustic waves will be better attenuated by plywood than by MDF." So could you explain that theory about plexiglass a little clearer for me, I can be a little slow from time to time.
A long downfall of plexiglass is expense of the good stuff. Therefore people try to use thin stuff, which flexes like hell and will destroy the sound of a box. But going up to the above principle, make it stiff or make it heavy. If you use 1" thick lexant for a sub enclosure it will not flex, therefor it will not resonate. I have heard one of bobby gately's boxes with two JL w7s before and it sounded like any other sub enclosure to me. Yes, if the sub box is the shining star of the install and ****ty equipment is in it, yea thats rice. But its not differant then some performance parts, if that is all that is on the car, its rice, but if it is the foundation of something better, its not.
#27
10-07-2005, 09:57 PM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
ORIGINAL: ngoti8tor
It depends how thick the plexiglass is. If it's not thick enough, it'll work like crap.
It depends how thick the plexiglass is. If it's not thick enough, it'll work like crap.
BTW, the choice of professionals is Baltic Birch plywood. Also, as bobbytonic glue is definitely better than caulking. Caulking will help keep the cracks sealed and the sound from squeazing out, but doesn't do as much as carpenters glue as far as holding the wood together. As bobbytonic said, if 2 pieces of MDF are glued together, the glued joint will actually be stronger than the wood itself.
#28
11-03-2005, 10:57 PM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
ORIGINAL: bobbytonic
Other way around, if you build a proper box with glue you don't need screws because wood glue if infinitly stronger then MDF once it is dried. I personally prefer the use Gorilla glue for its sealing and adhesive properties. Glue it clamp it move on.
Concerning MDF over plexi...
People use MDF to build boxes because of the weight of it. Every object has a resonant frequency, and every item has flexibility and weight.
Flexibility and weight inversly will give you the resonance of your object. Take wood for example:
When building a subwoofer enclosure you have two choices, you can push the resonance of the wood above or below the frequencies subs play at 20-80hz. To do this you can either use extremely heavy wood that is flexible, or light wood that is extremely stiff. Marine grade birch or void-free plywood are much much superior for subwoofer enclosure making. Using this kind of wood, the enclosure will never flex due to the manufacturing process of cross laminating the fibers.
The other way is to make it heavy, heavy wood resonates at a lower frequency, therefor lower the resonant frequency below 20 and it's not a problem.
MDF is "better" because of availbility and price. Birch is $65 a sheet as opposed to $18 for MDF, but for you tuners it is alot lighter then MDF to save weight.
As for your box absorbing sound, that seems the exact opposite of what you want it to do. You use curtains in home theatres and commercial theatres for acoustic attenuation, that is converting "noise" into heat by having it move an object. Which is you want excess sound to pass through an object to muffle it's sound. "Additionally, we need to consider the internal loss. As sound passes through material boundaries, it loses energy. The more layers, and the greater the changes in density, the more energy is lost. MDF is a VERY homogeneous material - it has little internal loss. Plywood, on the other hand, has multiple layers and has considerably higher internal loss. So acoustic waves will be better attenuated by plywood than by MDF." So could you explain that theory about plexiglass a little clearer for me, I can be a little slow from time to time.
A long downfall of plexiglass is expense of the good stuff. Therefore people try to use thin stuff, which flexes like hell and will destroy the sound of a box. But going up to the above principle, make it stiff or make it heavy. If you use 1" thick lexant for a sub enclosure it will not flex, therefor it will not resonate. I have heard one of bobby gately's boxes with two JL w7s before and it sounded like any other sub enclosure to me. Yes, if the sub box is the shining star of the install and ****ty equipment is in it, yea thats rice. But its not differant then some performance parts, if that is all that is on the car, its rice, but if it is the foundation of something better, its not.
Other way around, if you build a proper box with glue you don't need screws because wood glue if infinitly stronger then MDF once it is dried. I personally prefer the use Gorilla glue for its sealing and adhesive properties. Glue it clamp it move on.
Concerning MDF over plexi...
People use MDF to build boxes because of the weight of it. Every object has a resonant frequency, and every item has flexibility and weight.
Flexibility and weight inversly will give you the resonance of your object. Take wood for example:
When building a subwoofer enclosure you have two choices, you can push the resonance of the wood above or below the frequencies subs play at 20-80hz. To do this you can either use extremely heavy wood that is flexible, or light wood that is extremely stiff. Marine grade birch or void-free plywood are much much superior for subwoofer enclosure making. Using this kind of wood, the enclosure will never flex due to the manufacturing process of cross laminating the fibers.
The other way is to make it heavy, heavy wood resonates at a lower frequency, therefor lower the resonant frequency below 20 and it's not a problem.
MDF is "better" because of availbility and price. Birch is $65 a sheet as opposed to $18 for MDF, but for you tuners it is alot lighter then MDF to save weight.
As for your box absorbing sound, that seems the exact opposite of what you want it to do. You use curtains in home theatres and commercial theatres for acoustic attenuation, that is converting "noise" into heat by having it move an object. Which is you want excess sound to pass through an object to muffle it's sound. "Additionally, we need to consider the internal loss. As sound passes through material boundaries, it loses energy. The more layers, and the greater the changes in density, the more energy is lost. MDF is a VERY homogeneous material - it has little internal loss. Plywood, on the other hand, has multiple layers and has considerably higher internal loss. So acoustic waves will be better attenuated by plywood than by MDF." So could you explain that theory about plexiglass a little clearer for me, I can be a little slow from time to time.
A long downfall of plexiglass is expense of the good stuff. Therefore people try to use thin stuff, which flexes like hell and will destroy the sound of a box. But going up to the above principle, make it stiff or make it heavy. If you use 1" thick lexant for a sub enclosure it will not flex, therefor it will not resonate. I have heard one of bobby gately's boxes with two JL w7s before and it sounded like any other sub enclosure to me. Yes, if the sub box is the shining star of the install and ****ty equipment is in it, yea thats rice. But its not differant then some performance parts, if that is all that is on the car, its rice, but if it is the foundation of something better, its not.
#29
11-03-2005, 11:02 PM
RE: Plexi-glass box...
2" thick plexiglass........wow, now that's thick. Although it's a waste of space because you could build an enclosure out of wood with 3/4" or 1" thick walls.
Maybe they wanted that plexiglass enclosure "bulletproof".
Maybe they wanted that plexiglass enclosure "bulletproof".