Bridging amp
#1
Bridging amp
Hey, would it be possible to bridge my 2 channel jbl amp so I can amplify my four speakers? I ask this as I donnot really desire my subs right now and I have jbl speakers that would be really nice with the extra power. Also, if I only hooked up the two rear speakers to the amp, my stereo has built in so would the extra power from that go to the front speakers? And yes, my amp would have plenty enough power to supply four speakers, but can it be done is the question. Thanks.
#3
RE: Bridging amp
So, you want to hook up 4 speakers to a 2 channel amp? It's likely possible. There are a few logistics required, though.
What you are talking about is not bridging the amp. It's wiring more speakers. You can wire speakers in series or parallel, depending on the resistance of the speakers. For example, some subwoofers have 2 voice coils at 4 ohms resistance each. Depending on how you wire the two voice coils gives you either 2 ohms or 8 ohms resistance. The same thing can apply to smaller speakers.
Tell us more about your setup. What exactly are you trying to do? Be specific. Do you mean that you want to use your amplifier to power the four internal speakers in the door panels and rear deck? What kind of speakers? What is the resistance of the speakers? (4 ohms, likely?) How many watts does your amp put out? At what resistance is it stable? (4 ohms?)
What you are talking about is not bridging the amp. It's wiring more speakers. You can wire speakers in series or parallel, depending on the resistance of the speakers. For example, some subwoofers have 2 voice coils at 4 ohms resistance each. Depending on how you wire the two voice coils gives you either 2 ohms or 8 ohms resistance. The same thing can apply to smaller speakers.
Tell us more about your setup. What exactly are you trying to do? Be specific. Do you mean that you want to use your amplifier to power the four internal speakers in the door panels and rear deck? What kind of speakers? What is the resistance of the speakers? (4 ohms, likely?) How many watts does your amp put out? At what resistance is it stable? (4 ohms?)
#4
RE: Bridging amp
alright, I got some more info for you. The front door speakers are JBL 5 1/4" 527 touring series speakers with these specs:
Warranty
One Yea
General
Power Handling, RMS
45 Watts
Power Handling, Peak
135 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB)
70Hz - 21kHz
Sensitivity
91dB
Mounting Depth
2-5/16" (59mm)
Cut-Out Diameter
4-11/16" (120mm)
Impedance
2 OhmsThe rear speakers (I have a hatch so I custom installed them in the rear arm rest) are JBL 6 1/2" 627 grand touring series with these specs:
Warranty
One Year
General
Power Handling, RMS
60 Watts
Power Handling, Peak
180 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB)
55Hz-21kHz
Sensitivity
92dB
Mounting Depth
2-1/16"
Cut-Out Diameter
5-1/8"
Impedance
2 Ohms
My head unit is a Pioneer Premier :
DEH-P590IB
Premierâ„¢ In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Receiver 50w*4 22w*4
And my amp (not really sure but think its this one, as I only have one 30 amp fuse on it) isa JBL :
GTO301.1 II
300-Watt Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
High-output MOSFET power supply ensures optimum power delivery into numerous impedances with low distortion.
The GTO301.1 II features a 12dB per octave electronic crossover, allowing you to optimize bass performance based on cabin size, as well as subwoofer location and enclosure type.
RCA low-level inputs.
Full-range preamp outputs facilitate use of multiple amplifiers without the need for noisy and expensive adapters or signal splitters.
Optional remote level bass control available.
A variable bass boost circuit is provided to optimize system response.
OTHER VIEWS:
SPECIFICATIONS
Warranty
One Year
General
CEA Rated
Click here to learn about the new CEA2006 Amplifier Standard.
Power Output
204 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms
and ≤ 1% THD + N (BR>
294 watts RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms,
14.4V supply and ≤ 1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
77 dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Dynamic Power
320 watts at 2 ohms
Effective Damping Factor
6.39 at 4 ohms
Frequency Response (-3dB)
10Hz - 302Hz
Maximum Input Signal
4.7V
Maximum Sensitivity
220mV
Output Regulation
.098 dB at 4 ohms
Dimensions (H x W x D)
11-5/8" x 12-5/16" x 2-3/8"
Warranty
One Yea
General
Power Handling, RMS
45 Watts
Power Handling, Peak
135 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB)
70Hz - 21kHz
Sensitivity
91dB
Mounting Depth
2-5/16" (59mm)
Cut-Out Diameter
4-11/16" (120mm)
Impedance
2 OhmsThe rear speakers (I have a hatch so I custom installed them in the rear arm rest) are JBL 6 1/2" 627 grand touring series with these specs:
Warranty
One Year
General
Power Handling, RMS
60 Watts
Power Handling, Peak
180 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB)
55Hz-21kHz
Sensitivity
92dB
Mounting Depth
2-1/16"
Cut-Out Diameter
5-1/8"
Impedance
2 Ohms
My head unit is a Pioneer Premier :
DEH-P590IB
Premierâ„¢ In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Receiver 50w*4 22w*4
And my amp (not really sure but think its this one, as I only have one 30 amp fuse on it) isa JBL :
GTO301.1 II
300-Watt Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
High-output MOSFET power supply ensures optimum power delivery into numerous impedances with low distortion.
The GTO301.1 II features a 12dB per octave electronic crossover, allowing you to optimize bass performance based on cabin size, as well as subwoofer location and enclosure type.
RCA low-level inputs.
Full-range preamp outputs facilitate use of multiple amplifiers without the need for noisy and expensive adapters or signal splitters.
Optional remote level bass control available.
A variable bass boost circuit is provided to optimize system response.
OTHER VIEWS:
SPECIFICATIONS
Warranty
One Year
General
CEA Rated
Click here to learn about the new CEA2006 Amplifier Standard.
Power Output
204 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms
and ≤ 1% THD + N (BR>
294 watts RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms,
14.4V supply and ≤ 1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
77 dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Dynamic Power
320 watts at 2 ohms
Effective Damping Factor
6.39 at 4 ohms
Frequency Response (-3dB)
10Hz - 302Hz
Maximum Input Signal
4.7V
Maximum Sensitivity
220mV
Output Regulation
.098 dB at 4 ohms
Dimensions (H x W x D)
11-5/8" x 12-5/16" x 2-3/8"
#6
RE: Bridging amp
This is a tough call. I'd need to know specs for you EXACT amp. You saidyours was a 2 channel, but those are specs fora 1 channel mono amp. Check the model number on your amp and compare it to some sites. Make sure these specs are correct for your model.
As it looks, this would be a bit difficult to do all 4. If it is a 2 channel amp, you would have to run wires from the amp to the door speakers, unless you want to cut up your stock wiring harness. This means routing wires under carpet, behind panels, etc. depending on where the amp is. If you really want to do all that, it might be possible. Let me lay out some information on your specs.
All of your speakers are 2 Ohms. That's not a lot of resistance, which is good for some applications and not so good for others. I think I finally have all this wiring stuff figured out, but someone should PLEASE check this for me. You would think about your system like this:
2 front speakers @ 45 watts RMS, 135 Max = 90 watts RMS, 270 watts Max
2 front speakers @ 2 Ohms: 4 ohms wired in series or 1 Ohm wired in parallel.
(If you don't understand parallel and series circuits, let me refer you to http://www.the12volt.com)
2 rear speakers @ 60 watts RMS, 180 Max= 120 watts RMS, 360 wattsMax
2 rear speakers @ 2 Ohms: 4 Ohms wired in series or 1 Ohm wired in parallel.
Total power: 210 RMS, 630 Max. You don't want to aim towards the max. It'll damage your speakers. Best to go with the RMS.
The amp specs you have given show that it might have too much power for those speakers.
The amp has an output of:
204 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms
294 watts RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms
If it's 1 channel, you would have to wire in parallel to hook up all 4 with ease. That would make your total resistance drop to ... 0.5 Ohms? I think. That would be too low. Your amp would put out much more power than I care to calculate, and it wouldn't be stable. It would destroy your speakers. You could try to run it in series, but that would mean a lot of extra wire trouble, which isn't worthit IMO.
If you were just doing the back ones with this amp, it would be within tolerance limits of the speaker design, but I wouldn't recommend putting that much power to them, personally. You could wire the two of them in series to the 1 channel amp, creating 4 ohms resistance. That would give 102 watts per speaker, and as long as you don't turn it up too high, it would be fine. But, your front ones would be running on the same power and the back ones would be bumpin'. Not a good balance.
It's looking like you might not want to try it, if that is indeed your amp.
As it looks, this would be a bit difficult to do all 4. If it is a 2 channel amp, you would have to run wires from the amp to the door speakers, unless you want to cut up your stock wiring harness. This means routing wires under carpet, behind panels, etc. depending on where the amp is. If you really want to do all that, it might be possible. Let me lay out some information on your specs.
All of your speakers are 2 Ohms. That's not a lot of resistance, which is good for some applications and not so good for others. I think I finally have all this wiring stuff figured out, but someone should PLEASE check this for me. You would think about your system like this:
2 front speakers @ 45 watts RMS, 135 Max = 90 watts RMS, 270 watts Max
2 front speakers @ 2 Ohms: 4 ohms wired in series or 1 Ohm wired in parallel.
(If you don't understand parallel and series circuits, let me refer you to http://www.the12volt.com)
2 rear speakers @ 60 watts RMS, 180 Max= 120 watts RMS, 360 wattsMax
2 rear speakers @ 2 Ohms: 4 Ohms wired in series or 1 Ohm wired in parallel.
Total power: 210 RMS, 630 Max. You don't want to aim towards the max. It'll damage your speakers. Best to go with the RMS.
The amp specs you have given show that it might have too much power for those speakers.
The amp has an output of:
204 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms
294 watts RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms
If it's 1 channel, you would have to wire in parallel to hook up all 4 with ease. That would make your total resistance drop to ... 0.5 Ohms? I think. That would be too low. Your amp would put out much more power than I care to calculate, and it wouldn't be stable. It would destroy your speakers. You could try to run it in series, but that would mean a lot of extra wire trouble, which isn't worthit IMO.
If you were just doing the back ones with this amp, it would be within tolerance limits of the speaker design, but I wouldn't recommend putting that much power to them, personally. You could wire the two of them in series to the 1 channel amp, creating 4 ohms resistance. That would give 102 watts per speaker, and as long as you don't turn it up too high, it would be fine. But, your front ones would be running on the same power and the back ones would be bumpin'. Not a good balance.
It's looking like you might not want to try it, if that is indeed your amp.
#7
RE: Bridging amp
ok thanks, im pretty sure thats my amp, as it has the one 30 amp fuse, 2 posi and 2 neg hookups, and it looks identical. I might be confused on the channel part f the amps, Ill take a look to see a serial number or something.Ill take a look, thanks again, ill just post what it is for you anyways, I think I will get a 4 channel amp to do the speakers
#8
RE: Bridging amp
bad idea... you have a mono amp which means your gonna be rocking 1 channel ...no balance no fader and no channel seperation.... it'll sound like crap ....will it make noise... yes.. in my opinon it'll sound better running them off your deck..... the reason it has 2 pos and 2 neg terminals is for wiring up multiple subs.... there all common on the board inside your amp.... hope this helps
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