Advice on amp/sub
#12
RE: Advice on amp/sub
I was thinkin bout gettin this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-r0vISk2...mp;I=108PER101 and a amp that i still have to choose. And then making a box with my uncle...
#15
RE: Advice on amp/sub
Those subs look great to me, and if you buy a pair, you would most likely want to wire them just like option one in this link : http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/le...impedance=SVC4
That gives you a 2 ohm resistance load to your amp, as long as your amp is a 2ohm stable amp, which most are now a days, and can supply 75% of the RMS power per channel, thatsthe amp's total RMS power divided by 2, then you will be quite happy.
Remember if building a box, which is easier then you think, you need to look on that link you posted, and make sure that your airspace inside the box is as close as possible to what Infinity is suggesting. Looks like 0.6 Cubic Feet for a sealed box, and 1.0 Cubic Feet for a ported.I personaly would do sealed, your bass will be tighter.
And yes you can easily put 2, even 3 10's in that civic trunk, it will rock the house!
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I will also add that I do realize that Profile amp's are not the best, but for the guy that has little to spend, they will pack a punch until that tax refund or christmas bonus comes in. I would suggest if buying a Profile, you always buy 25% more power then you need, to compensate for the overratings, and buy a warranty where applicable.
That gives you a 2 ohm resistance load to your amp, as long as your amp is a 2ohm stable amp, which most are now a days, and can supply 75% of the RMS power per channel, thatsthe amp's total RMS power divided by 2, then you will be quite happy.
Remember if building a box, which is easier then you think, you need to look on that link you posted, and make sure that your airspace inside the box is as close as possible to what Infinity is suggesting. Looks like 0.6 Cubic Feet for a sealed box, and 1.0 Cubic Feet for a ported.I personaly would do sealed, your bass will be tighter.
And yes you can easily put 2, even 3 10's in that civic trunk, it will rock the house!
______________________
I will also add that I do realize that Profile amp's are not the best, but for the guy that has little to spend, they will pack a punch until that tax refund or christmas bonus comes in. I would suggest if buying a Profile, you always buy 25% more power then you need, to compensate for the overratings, and buy a warranty where applicable.
#16
RE: Advice on amp/sub
Thanks a lot for the advice... and im still scared to build a box since my uncle hasnt dont it in a few years... but we'll give it a try lol. I just need to find a amp now... Oh do i also need to find a more powerful amp for my component speakers?
Edit #1:Also i do NEED a wiring kit? and should I get dynamat or w/e, or is that more for competition systems?
Edit #2: Should I just get a mono channel amp for the 2 subs and get a 4 channel for my components speaker later??
Edit #1:Also i do NEED a wiring kit? and should I get dynamat or w/e, or is that more for competition systems?
Edit #2: Should I just get a mono channel amp for the 2 subs and get a 4 channel for my components speaker later??
#17
RE: Advice on amp/sub
if i were you id get an alpine type r 12" with the 600w V12 series amp. thats real nice or step up to an alpine type x with a V12 1000w amp. im an alpine guy though...but as far as other brands go, infinity is priced well and good quality stuff.
#20
RE: Advice on amp/sub
Ok, a mono amp would be nifty for a sub, or pair, they just manage to deal more power, cooler and more efficiently then the Class A and otherwise 2 channel stereo amps by some cool little power switching technology that I won't go into.
A 4 channel amp would be used if you want to amp your high end speakers, and since you are looking at getting some component speakers, I would suggest one. I have an Alpine V75 *or something like that* amp that I bought YEARS ago, it still rocks. It's a 4 channel amp 75 watts per channel, and its perfect for a lower end component hook up, IfI recall it was only about 200 bucks, you can probably find one on ebay or somewhere cheaper. Alpine has a decent amp, I would suggest alpine products to just about anyone after my good luck with them.
And as for the Dynamat, its crap. You don't really need that stuff, unless you have a TON of road noise comming in from an older vehicle. Newer vehicles, and I mean 94ish and up usualy have a nice little road noise dampener foam surround installed behind your door pannel, sealed just under the window and all around the outter door edge. It will take care of most of your troubles, but If you for some reason have alot of noise comming from one door or the other, it might help to paste some of it inside the door pannel behind your speakers and around the door frame. I have never used it, and don't really plan on it, the price alone is too much for just a little bit of road noise.
You will need a wiring kit, for almost any amp, and if you are going to hook up components, you will need to buy extra speaker wire, I suggest 10 gauge, and for your amp's power and ground you will want something 8 gauge min, 6 if you can afford it. As long as your not going nuclear on the power scale, 6 gauge is perfectly suited to almost any application, and its a little easier to hide and poke through your firewall. 8 gauge will work, but it is a little skimpy if you ask me.
Don't be afraid to buy a box, you can find them for relatively cheap, and checking your local audio stores will probably turn up something to make it all fit together. Sometimes they can build em for you there specificaly to your speakers required airspace.
A 4 channel amp would be used if you want to amp your high end speakers, and since you are looking at getting some component speakers, I would suggest one. I have an Alpine V75 *or something like that* amp that I bought YEARS ago, it still rocks. It's a 4 channel amp 75 watts per channel, and its perfect for a lower end component hook up, IfI recall it was only about 200 bucks, you can probably find one on ebay or somewhere cheaper. Alpine has a decent amp, I would suggest alpine products to just about anyone after my good luck with them.
And as for the Dynamat, its crap. You don't really need that stuff, unless you have a TON of road noise comming in from an older vehicle. Newer vehicles, and I mean 94ish and up usualy have a nice little road noise dampener foam surround installed behind your door pannel, sealed just under the window and all around the outter door edge. It will take care of most of your troubles, but If you for some reason have alot of noise comming from one door or the other, it might help to paste some of it inside the door pannel behind your speakers and around the door frame. I have never used it, and don't really plan on it, the price alone is too much for just a little bit of road noise.
You will need a wiring kit, for almost any amp, and if you are going to hook up components, you will need to buy extra speaker wire, I suggest 10 gauge, and for your amp's power and ground you will want something 8 gauge min, 6 if you can afford it. As long as your not going nuclear on the power scale, 6 gauge is perfectly suited to almost any application, and its a little easier to hide and poke through your firewall. 8 gauge will work, but it is a little skimpy if you ask me.
Don't be afraid to buy a box, you can find them for relatively cheap, and checking your local audio stores will probably turn up something to make it all fit together. Sometimes they can build em for you there specificaly to your speakers required airspace.