96 Civic: Speakers, Subs, Amp, Radio/Center
#22
06-17-2009, 01:01 PM
Also, my civic is a 4 door sedan and not a coupe, would that make a difference with needing rear speakers?
Also, I found these deals for subs already in boxes on overstock.com and was wondering if they were any good. I'm not looking for anything super amazing, just something good that's cheap. How does this look?
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...9/product.html
or the same thing but 10in instead of 12in:
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...?sec_iid=33969
Also help me out with amps, if an amp says 2-channel 2400 watts, does that mean 2400 watts total? or 2400 watts going through each channel?
Also, I found these deals for subs already in boxes on overstock.com and was wondering if they were any good. I'm not looking for anything super amazing, just something good that's cheap. How does this look?
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...9/product.html
or the same thing but 10in instead of 12in:
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...?sec_iid=33969
Also help me out with amps, if an amp says 2-channel 2400 watts, does that mean 2400 watts total? or 2400 watts going through each channel?
Lanzar is about the worst you can buy when it comes to car audio.
And if something says it's a 2400 watt 2 channel amp, it is a POS not worth even looking at (unless it costs as much as your car).
RULE #1 === NEVER look at max wattage ratings....ALWAYS make sure it is the RMS rating you are looking at.
#25
06-18-2009, 10:51 AM
RMS power is found by subjecting the amplifier to a specific scientific test where it is used to amplify sine waves into a test load resistor until a certain amount of distortion occurs. This test used to be somewhat regulated by the government but I think they are out of that business now. Even though they may be outright lies too, RMS ratings are still the only rating that should be used to compare.
"Peak power", "music power" etc. are whatever number the maker chooses to stamp on the box.
"Peak power", "music power" etc. are whatever number the maker chooses to stamp on the box.
#26
06-18-2009, 03:51 PM
RMS power is found by subjecting the amplifier to a specific scientific test where it is used to amplify sine waves into a test load resistor until a certain amount of distortion occurs. This test used to be somewhat regulated by the government but I think they are out of that business now. Even though they may be outright lies too, RMS ratings are still the only rating that should be used to compare.
"Peak power", "music power" etc. are whatever number the maker chooses to stamp on the box.
"Peak power", "music power" etc. are whatever number the maker chooses to stamp on the box.
The setup i listed is very nice. I'm running the exact same thing in my car. Very high quality amp and great speakers for the price
#27
06-18-2009, 04:18 PM
RMS power is found by subjecting the amplifier to a specific scientific test where it is used to amplify sine waves into a test load resistor until a certain amount of distortion occurs. This test used to be somewhat regulated by the government but I think they are out of that business now. Even though they may be outright lies too, RMS ratings are still the only rating that should be used to compare.
"Peak power", "music power" etc. are whatever number the maker chooses to stamp on the box.
"Peak power", "music power" etc. are whatever number the maker chooses to stamp on the box.
Another downfall is the voltage number that CEA 2006 rates at, 14.4 volts. I hate to break it to you, but if you are running a 1,500 watt RMS (or higher) sound system, you more than likely aren't providing a constant 14.4 volts to your amplifiers when playing at full volume! In other words, the 14.4 volt rating is coming close to another pipe dream.
#28
06-18-2009, 04:20 PM
They still have the CEA 2006 certification, but you have to be very careful with amplifiers stamped with the CEA 2006 rating. For example, certain Kenwood amplifiers are CEA 2006 rated at 4 ohms only, yet they provide 2 and 1 ohm power numbers that are nothing but a pipe dream.
Another downfall is the voltage number that CEA 2006 rates at, 14.4 volts. I hate to break it to you, but if you are running a 1,500 watt RMS (or higher) sound system, you more than likely aren't providing a constant 14.4 volts to your amplifiers when playing at full volume! In other words, the 14.4 volt rating is coming close to another pipe dream.
Another downfall is the voltage number that CEA 2006 rates at, 14.4 volts. I hate to break it to you, but if you are running a 1,500 watt RMS (or higher) sound system, you more than likely aren't providing a constant 14.4 volts to your amplifiers when playing at full volume! In other words, the 14.4 volt rating is coming close to another pipe dream.
#29
06-18-2009, 07:26 PM
so next on my list is speakers, should i continue to look on crutchfield? i really liked it for looking at car stereos.
i'm not looking for anything super expensive, preferrably around $80 or below for a pair
just wondering what i could get that would be good for around that price range
i'm not looking for anything super expensive, preferrably around $80 or below for a pair
just wondering what i could get that would be good for around that price range
#30
06-18-2009, 07:40 PM
get these:
http://www.powermaxelectronics.com/p...&idcategory=88
with the this:
http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/inde...th=65_67_69_75
IF you don't plan on ever getting rear midbass, or subs....which i highly suggest. a 6.5" speaker can only do so much
Check out Knukonceptz for wiring, best wire for the money
http://www.powermaxelectronics.com/p...&idcategory=88
with the this:
http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/inde...th=65_67_69_75
IF you don't plan on ever getting rear midbass, or subs....which i highly suggest. a 6.5" speaker can only do so much
Check out Knukonceptz for wiring, best wire for the money